A Matter of Time EP 09: Gemstone watches for dummies, from hardstone dials to rainbow bezels
Time+TideStone dial watches, gemset watches, diamond watches… You may see this headline and think this video is not for you. But Eleonor takes Andrew and Kristian to school, and as she runs through the origins of hardstones, intricacies of setting diamonds and gemstones, and the various cuts utilised by many watch brands, it becomes clear that this subject, often scoffed at by male watch collectors, is far more fascinating and insightful than you might expect.
Where does the added cost really come from? Is it justified? What hardstones, gemstones, and diamonds are the most and least expensive? Watch the full video to learn about it all. We promise it is very, very much worth it.
Understanding the stones
First, the terminology matters. Only diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies qualify as “precious stones”—the term “semi-precious” was officially retired in 2017. Everything else falls under “colour gemstones” or “ornamental stones.” Mother-of-pearl, despite being harvested from oyster shells, counts as an ornamental stone. Natural variations create unique characteristics: black mother-of-pearl from French Polynesia, champagne from the Philippines, and white from China, for example. Recent releases from brands like Ulysse Nardin featuring chrysoprase and H. Moser & Cie.’s multi-stone Pop watches demonstrate the technical complexity involved; different stones have varying hardness on the Mohs scale, requiring precision laser cutting to prevent cracking.
The lab-grown diamond debate
Lab-grown diamonds have entered the conversation, and the facts are straightforward: they’re chemically, aesthetically, and optically identical to mined diamonds. The difference is purely in origin. For smaller paving stones, the price difference is minimal, about 20%, since setting costs remain identical. At larger carat weights, lab-grown stones cost 50-60% less. In watches, where diamonds serve aesthetic rather than investment purposes, lab-grown options enable creative freedom. Brands like Oris and Furlan Marri have embraced them for sustainability and pricing reasons. Other brands, like TAG Heuer, have used lab-grown diamonds due to their ability to be manufactured, cut, and set in innovative ways that mined diamonds cannot. A watch like the Carrera Plasma, which has a crown made of a diamond, is only possible with lab-grown diamonds.
Not all rainbow bezels are created equal
Rainbow bezels represent the pinnacle of gem-setting artistry, achieved through three methods: all-sapphire (the most prestigious), multi-gemstone combinations using stones like tsavorite and amethyst, or ceramised glass crystals. The all-sapphire approach faces genuine limitations. Even Rolex production can stall waiting for specific purple sapphire hues; Mother Nature, not manufacturing capacity, determines availability.
H. Moser & Cie’s Streamliner Rainbow exemplifies this craft, with each sapphire hand-cut for a perfect fit. On the other hand, F.P. Journe’s choice of synthetic crystals for his rainbow bezel raised Ele’s eyebrows at first, familiar with his passion for quality gemstones, but his reasoning was pure precision: achieving exact colours without natural imperfections proved impossible otherwise. So each avenue does have its value and advantages.
Beyond gender barriers
The conversation around gemstone watches increasingly transcends traditional gender boundaries. Whether it’s hardstone dials on sport watches or carefully considered diamond settings, the focus has shifted from femininity to personal expression, proving that the right stone can elevate any timepiece beyond conventional aesthetics.
What is A Matter of Time?
What is A Matter of Time all about? It is three watch experts getting together to talk about a subject they love: watches. Three minds. One passion. All the time in the world. A Matter of Time features Eleonor Picciotto (The Eye of Jewelery, The 1916 Company), Kristian Haagen (Author, Scandinavian Watch Extraordinare), and Andrew McUtchen (Founder, Time+Tide)
All full episodes of A Matter of Time will be posted right here on the Time+Tide YouTube Channel.