Furlan Marri puts on its diamonds for the disco with the new Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx
Tom Austin- Swiss-based, vintage-inspired disruptor Furlan Marri is back with a fresh Disco Volante, pairing precious gemstones with a gorgeous stone dial in an effort to take the brand to the next level.
- The new Disco Diamonds Onyx features the much-loved 1930s disco volante case design, matched with a deep black onyx dial, adorned with six lab-grown baguette-cut 0.12-carat diamonds.
- Once again, Furlan Marri proves that rare exotica doesn’t have to be so exclusive, offering a familiar aesthetic that collectors love, minus the life-changing price tag.
Initially, you may not think of Furlan Marri as a disruptive brand. One could argue that many of its vintage-inspired, homage-style watches, for all intents and purposes, are a rehash of watches that have come and gone from a bygone era. I propose that it’s something entirely different, and makes that notion all the more ironic. Furlan Marri’s ongoing success with these models, paired with certain brands taking their more current watches in a different direction, proves that the market still wants these vintage-inspired designs. And it wants them a lot. Another problem with several of the watches that Furlan Marri draws inspiration from is that you need a salary comparable to the GDP of a small country to afford one, and to me, that doesn’t make watch collecting an accessible pastime for everyone.
This opinion may not be well-received by some, but it comes from the perspective of a real collector with a real-world budget. Furlan Marri is disruptive by solving several of these hiccups, offering accessible and tasteful watches with the aesthetic of some of the most ultra-exclusive watches out there, matched with a price point that is palatable for most of us. Granted, it may lack the elusive brand cache and the centuries-old backstory, but in reality, there is an undertone of knowing that most of that is codswallop at the best of times, so I’m okay with that. The simple fact is, Furlan Marri makes cool watches, and their latest stone-dialled, diamond-clad Disco Volante is probably their coolest yet.
The case
Ah, the Disco Volante, once the case shape reserved for the likes of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. This design or aesthetic emerged in the 1930s as an Art Deco masterpiece that swept through the watch world. Over time, several more brands introduced their own variations, but by the 1980s, they had all but abandoned the flying-saucer-shaped design. Fast forward to 2024, and Furlan Marri had re-invented it as part of its vintage-inspired classics collection. Today, a new Disco Volante has been released, the Disco Diamonds Onyx, and it features the same 38mm 316L stainless steel circular case that breathes new life into the classic design.
At 8.95mm thick, including the domed sapphire crystal, the watch wears incredibly well, harking back to the vintage style, but with a modern twist. Not too small, but not too big either. The tiny crown is set inside the circular case shape, and is matched with a simple, rounded bezel to keep the design clean and uncluttered. A 50-meter water resistance rating means the watch is a realistic, excellent everyday wearer, and it includes features like the ultra-anti-reflective sapphire crystal, which even features a protective layer to prevent grubby fingerprints from obscuring the stunning dial. You’ll have to keep the polished surfaces fingerprint-free is all, because the circular case is a joy to handle.
The dial
Furlan Marri’s current dials in the Disco Volante lineup are about as traditional as they come, intricate and detailed, with extensive printing, sectors, and finishes. The range of colours is subtle yet pleasing, and they’re very reminiscent of the style we’ve come to know the brand for. This new dial, however, is a significant departure from that. The Disco Diamond Onyx’s dial design is much cleaner and uncluttered, with a simple monochromatic layout printed directly onto a luciously deep black onyx stone. There are no numbers on the dial, just a printed track with long, contrasting white hour markers, and it looks fantastic for it.
Of course, the standout feature of the Disco Diamond is at 12, 2, 4, 8, and 10 o’clock, marked with baguette-cut 0.12-carat clear diamonds. Furlan Marri have turned to lab-grown synthetic diamonds for this model, something that we’re beginning to see more and more of in the watch world, and offers several sustainability-led benefits, and of course, a dramatic effect on overall cost. Visually, though, the effect is just as stunning as if they were natural diamonds, because by all accounts, the diamonds are indeed chemically and structurally the same. Laid over the black onyx dial, the diamonds are striking, lending the watch a visual appeal reminiscent of some of the most exclusive haute horlogerie pieces in recent history. On top of that, the dial is even more legible than the standard models, which is an added bonus.
The strap
There are two strap options for the Disco Diamond, making it challenging to choose which one is best. The case’s design sets the ends of the strap under the sides of the watch for a clean, seamless look, and it pairs wonderfully with either option. The first is a black textured Italian leather strap, which is vegetable-tanned and features tidy black stitching to finish it off. The strap is secured by a PVD-coated, signed buckle, detailed with a brushed finish. The second option is Furlan Marri’s fabulous stainless steel mesh bracelet, finished in 316L stainless steel to match the case. The bracelet is woven in a unique pattern that looks way better than most mesh bracelets we’ve seen on the market. It’s adjustable for size and comfort, and features a brushed, engraved buckle.
The movement
Flip the watch over, and the exhibition caseback exposes the mechanically wound ETA/Peseux 7001 calibre fitted inside. It’s not some ground-breaking movement, but it does tie in with the traditional, vintage nature of the watch. There’s nothing like owning a vintage watch that requires winding and setting; that’s something collectors love, and the Peseux calibre allows for just that, while remaining reliable and hardworking. The movement has been overhauled by Furlan Marri, too, to add some detailed flair to it, just as you’d expect. That includes some redesigned and refinished bridges that have been lovingly diamond-polished, along with côtes de Genève finishing to do their best to make the movement as joyful to look at as the front of the watch. The movement only offers a 42-hour power reserve, which isn’t the most long-lasting, but I would argue that having to wind it more often does help the wearer bond with a watch more.
The verdict
Furlan Marri are perfecting the skill of taking classic, inaccessible designs and offering them to the masses, and the Disco Diamond Onyx is a perfect natural progression of this process. Not only is the watch functional and wearable, it’s tapping into an aesthetic that is usually reserved for the hyper-exclusive. Indeed, it’s still a relatively expensive watch compared to the rest of their range, but given the dial features semi-precious stone, along with large, baguette-cut diamonds, it’s easy to see where the extra value lies. The market loves this kind of watch right now, and while it may not be something you see very often, because they are made in relatively limited numbers, it’s still a visually stunning watch with a lot of sex appeal. Furlan Marri is gaining its own solid collector base now, and this new Disco Volante is aimed at the more hardcore FM fan. It’s a watch you want to own when you already have a few others from the collection and want something that really stands out as different.
Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx pricing and availability
The Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx is available on the Furlan Marri website or through selected retailers (including Time+Tide), and is made in limited annual production numbers. Price: CHF 3,500
| Brand | Furlan Marri |
| Model | Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 8.95mm (T) x 38mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 316L stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Black onyx with lab-grown diamond indices |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Black Italian leather with pin buckle, or stainless steel mesh bracelet |
| Movement | Peseux 7001, hand-wound |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | From September 3rd |
| Price | CHF 3,500 |