Atelier Wen turns up the tantalum with its new Inflection series
Russell SheldrakeTantalum is one of the hardest materials to work with in the watch industry. It must be a sadistic mind that decides to create an entire watch and bracelet out of this material, yet the creative folk at Atelier Wen have done just that. Not only are they working with this challenging material, but they are doing so with a brand new product line for them, the Inflection series. While this is not the first time the Chinese brand has played in tantalum, this is definitely its most significant exploration as it looks to serialise its production.
The key highlights to understand with this new line are obviously the full tantalum case and bracelet, the grand feu enamel dials, and a movement customised specially for them by Girard-Perregaux. Watch our video below where Andrew sits down with Atelier Wen’s CEO, Robin Tallendier to discuss what makes this new release so special – or, if you just want to get straight into the watch, keep reading on!
The case
As you can tell, this is a completely new design for Atelier Wen, yet there is a real sense of continuation from the brand’s Perception models. The overall shape is very similar, but where the Perception is edgy and sharp, the Inflection is smooth and rounded. This shift in design creates an entirely different feel when on the wrist, and that is needed when you shift from titanium to tantalum, as the difference in density means the more curved surfaces sit a little easier as you wear it.
For those not fully aware of tantalum, it is most easily identified by its blue-grey sheen and high density. Because of this super-high density, it is incredibly hard to work with. Once you start to machine it, the excess material starts to gum up anything it touches, becoming incredibly sticky and ruining all your tools. However, it is completely hypoallergenic and corrosion-resistant, making it a wonderful material to have next to your skin every day. Because it is so hard to work with, very few brands have attempted to create watches with it; most are a simple case, like the F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu, or mixed with other metals, like a short run of vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks, which often mixed it with different types of gold.
That is all to say that the Inflection boasting both a full case and bracelet made entirely from tantalum is extremely impressive. Atelier Wen didn’t make things easy on themselves, either: there is a mix of polished and brushed surfaces throughout, with not a single one of them flat, making it even harder on their machinists to achieve a flawless finish.
Measuring 40mm across and 45mm lug-to-lug, this is not a small watch, as integrated pieces will always wear a little bigger than you might think. (Being fully tantalum, it’s also quite heavy.) However, it comes with a screw-down crown that gives it 100m of water resistance, meaning it is not only comfortable enough to wear every day but also practical enough.
Flip the case over, and there is a sapphire display back to show that Girard-Perregaux movement we mentioned above. More on that in a second. Holding this piece in your hand, you get the sense of just how substantial a watch can feel. While we would never suggest that weight is a sign of quality, there is something about the reassuring heft of this complete tantalum watch that shows more complex finishing than any other model made from this metal that I have ever seen.
The dial
As we mentioned at the top, the second headline of this watch is the new dials. There are three colours available, and all are made from grand feu enamel by the Chinese enamel workshop, Kong Lingjun, but they will not be produced in equal amounts. The green fumé dial is limited to just 30 pieces, with the blue and black to be the model’s standard production models. Adding to the craftsmanship of these limited pieces, the enamel sits atop a hand-hammered silver dial base to add even more texture and intrigue.
All three dials come with Arabic numerals that have been printed on and specially designed for this model by watch designer Lee Yuen-Rapati, whose work you may recognise from other independent brands such as Fears. These numerals extenuate the Asian origins of this watch and the brand, with this theme continued when we turn the watch over to look at the movement. The black dial is almost onyx-like in its depth and sheen. There are no imperfections or impurities to find; however, just a glossy surface looking back at you. Conversely, the midnight blue could be the best colour to pair with the tantalum case and bracelet, as it plays off the natural hues of the metal perfectly.
The bracelet
This is where this watch takes things to another level. As we have already said multiple times, this is 100% tantalum, one of the rarest metals in the watchmaking industry, and for good reason. To work this material into a form and finish that is acceptable in today’s market, it takes far too much energy and tooling that will get chewed up in the process for this to be cost-effective for most brands. However, Atelier Wen has committed to it, and with real gusto on this bracelet. It would have been easier to machine simple, straight lines and flat edges, but the brand wanted to challenge themselves and prove to the world what they were capable of. So they came up with this smooth, curved design that flows from brushed to highly polished surfaces almost seamlessly.
The integrated bracelet is a recognisable H-link design, but with every possible edge and surface curved, it takes on a new life here, and a new level of comfort. And what is the biggest bug-bear that many of us have with integrated bracelet designs today? The lack of micro-adjustment. But that won’t be the case here; a patent-pending micro-adjust system has been installed that can be moved up to four positions. A necessity for pretty much all integrated sports watches, especially one that is carrying this much weight, as a poor fit can be exaggerated by a heavier watch.
You can also buy these watches on a sailcloth fabric strap as well, if you would prefer a lighter weight and more affordable option. However, I am inclined to recommend that this watch is all about the bracelet, and to buy it on the strap would be doing a disservice to yourself.
The movement
Inside this watch, Atelier Wen has gone for something a little different from its previous endeavours. The Girard-Perregaux manufacture calibre 03300 sits inside each piece, but it is not the standard version you would find in the Swiss brand’s models. The movement has been heavily modified to include the bridges being skeletonised to resemble a Chinese wind motif. It’s a nice touch to see when you turn the watch over, and it adds to the effect created on the dial with these custom designer numerals.
The movement itself is relatively impressive; not only is it a marked departure from the standard stock calibres we are used to seeing in many indie brands today, but it has been adjusted to be accurate to within +/- 10 seconds a day with 48 hours of power reserve. It should also be noted that GP is able to produce this movement with a 24-hour hand as well, which could be an indicator of what is to come in the future for the Inflection series.
The verdict
We don’t see a lot of tantalum in watches today, and when we do, it feels like a fleeting glance rather than this considered study that Atelier Wen has offered us. Of course, they will not be able to produce high numbers of these watches, stating that in the first year they are aiming to produce 100, with 30 of those being dedicated to the limited edition and the other 70 to be split according to demand between the two dial colours. So don’t expect to see a ton of these in stores any time soon. However, getting 100 of these cases and bracelets produced in 12 months still feels pretty impressive.
Of course, we have seen efforts from other independents to produce bracelets in tantalum, such as the AHA trio of Ming, Joshua Shapiro, and Fleming, who released their collaborative effort last year at Geneva Watch Days. But no brand has committed to machining this metal to such a high level at such a consistent output with high production numbers. That is the true value of this watch. Will it signal a shift in the market for more brands to bravely attempt this level of endeavour? I’m not sure. The metal is untested in the wider market, and so investing in it would be risky given that the current trends are moving towards smaller and lighter, not bigger and heavier. But only time will tell. I’m very happy that this model now exists, and I would recommend finding one and trying it on as a matter of urgency.
Atelier Wen Inflection series pricing and availability
The new Atelier Wen Inflection series is available now, through an application process to the brand directly. Price: US$19,800 (fabric strap), US$29,800 (bracelet)
| Brand | Atelier Wen |
| Model | Inflection |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 45mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Tantalum |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and back |
| Dial | Green fume grand feu enamel with hand-hammered silver dial base Black grand feu enamel Blue grand feu enamel |
| Lug Width | Integrated |
| Strap | Integrated tantalum bracelet, butterfly clasp, micro-adjust Sailcloth and FKM rubber strap, tantalum buckle |
| Movement | Girard-Perregaux GP03300, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 48 hours |
| Functions |
Hours, minutes, seconds
|
| Availability |
Via application to the brand
|
| Price | US$19,800 (sailcloth strap) US$29,800 (integrated bracelet) |