The Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY celebrates a major milestone with a new size and calibre
Zach BlassWatch brands celebrate anniversaries all the time, but I personally think that a half-century is a big one. In 1975, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato was first introduced right in between the two models it is most often stacked up against – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972) and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976) – and it emphasised a handsome, sporty aesthetic while also pointedly utilising a quartz calibre for the utmost precision. At a time when most of the Swiss ran away from the future, Girard-Perregaux embraced the challenge.
I mention this because today the brand unveils the Laureato FIFTY, celebrating the 50th anniversary of arguably its most prominent collection with a two-tone aesthetic that pays tribute to the original 1975 design, while also debuting a new in-house GP4800 movement that elevates the aesthetic and precision of the watch further.
The case
The Laureato FIFTY not only debuts a new calibre, but also a new case size for the range. Previously, in the modern catalogue, we had 38mm and 42mm options to explore. Now, we have a slimmer 39mm case that measures just 9.8mm thick (for reference, that’s 0.2mm thinner than the 38mm case and nearly a millimetre thinner than the 42mm case).
On the wrist, it feels splendidly sporty yet slim, and the sloped lugs hug even my smaller 6.5-inch wrist very well. The finishing of the case is top-notch, with the stainless steel and 3N yellow gold surfaces beautifully brushed and polished. You can see above the mile-wide case bevelling and rich horizontal brushing, and the mixed finishes of the multi-faceted gold bezel and bezel platform look excellent as well. Despite its dapper look, it is worth pointing out that this 39mm adds 50 more metres of water-resistance with a 150-metre depth rating that is further secured by a screw-down crown.
The dial
Not only does the two-tone nature of the watch harken back to the original 1975 design, but so does its grey clous de Paris dial. The three central hands and applied hour indices are all fashioned in 3N gold, with the raised, sunray-brushed outer minutes ring printed in a matching gold colour. The hour indices and the hours and minutes hands are filled with Super-LumiNova for visibility in darkness. At 3 o’clock, you have a perfectly colour-matched date complication that blends very well into the dial while also being very legible too. Eagle-eyed observers might also notice the fact that there is no longer an applied “GP” at the 12 o’clock position, instead replaced with double batons for better visual harmony that notably results in a full set of lumed applied hour indices as well.
The bracelet
A subtle refinement with major impact, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY has a new bracelet. Yes, it is executed in the same format with brushed H-shaped links connected by broad, rectangular link pieces that are mirror-polished for contrast. However, Girard-Perregaux has made these link pieces ever so slightly more compact.
But what has the greatest impact on finding a better fit with the bracelet is its new butterfly folding clasp, which features 4mm of on-the-fly micro-adjustment: 2mm on each side of the clasp that can be extended or pushed back in whenever it suits you. Though some may not love the visible gap when the link is extended, I really enjoyed the fact that the clasp remains as slim as the rest of the bracelet. And, again, the rich brushing and thick bevelling that extends from the case and bracelet looks top-notch.
The movement
The star of the show, making its debut within this watch, is the new GP4800 movement. It is a 55-hour automatic time and date movement that, in my opinion, has really elevated the beauty beneath the exhibition caseback. I am not saying that the movements inside the Laureato 38mm and Laureato 42mm are slouches, but this calibre really fills the caseback and has an overhauled architecture that feels less generic and very Girard-Perregaux. It also has ten different surface finishes across its mainplate, bridges, and openworked gold rotor that includes sandblasting, circular-graining, vertical striping (compared to the circular striping seen on previous calibres), diamond-bevelled edges, and micro-polished screws, among other decorations.
Structurally, the calibre design takes inspiration from the brand’s signature Three Bridges design that dates all the way back to 1867, most clearly seen on the newly openworked solid gold rotor that affords a far better view of the remainder of the movement beneath. The calibre introduces a full balance bridge (its form also inspired by the brand’s logo and Three Bridges design) into the mix, and hosts a variable inertia balance that improves precision compared to more traditional methods. Four white gold screws within the balance allow the watchmakers to more finely regulate the calibre, and it also heightens the shock resistance of the calibre. The GP4800 also notably introduces a silicium escapement, vastly improving its resistance against magnetism.
The verdict
I really, really did not want to give this watch back. Fortunately, I really, really did not want to get sued more, so do not worry – I am not on the lam, running away from the authorities. Jokes (or not jokes?) aside, this is undoubtedly my new favourite Laureato in the modern catalogue. In fact, it is definitely at the top of my list in terms of my favourite integrated bracelet watches on the market today.
For me, it ticks all of the boxes. The watch, in terms of both size and fit, was perfectly suited to my wrist, very much the result of the new micro-adjust clasp and refined case and bracelet proportions. I think a grey dial was an excellent choice, creating an on-trend monochromatic sensibility of the watch that is strategically disrupted yet balanced by 3N yellow gold accents. Normally, two-tone can be a point of pause in a modern market that favours full steel watches. But I personally think, were this model in full steel with the present grey dial, it would be a bit too plain. The two-tone not only creates a throughline to 1975, but it also further enriches the personality of the watch and its visual impact.
I am under no illusions that a 55-hour power reserve is not particularly record-breaking: it’s only 9 more hours than the GP03300 inside the Laureato 38mm and just 1 hour more than the GP01800 inside the Laureato 42mm. But the GP4800 does have a full balance bridge that the previously mentioned calibres do not, and it truly feels designed just for this watch. As I said before, while the GP03300 and GP01800 calibres look nice, the new calibre GP4800 looks great and aesthetically rivals what you would find inside of its Holy Trinity competitive set. With it being limited to 200 pieces and priced at US$28,320, I sadly do not think I will be able to scrape together the cash in time. But if I could, I definitely would bring this watch into my personal collection.
For those who would question the price of this watch, I would point out that a 39mm Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ in full steel is priced nearly US$10,000 more. Yet, the GP4800 movement is (at a minimum in my mind) visually on par with the calibre 7121 inside the Jumbo and, technically speaking, arguably superior with three more hours of power reserve and an anti-magnetic silicium escapement. The Laureato FIFTY case of equal 39mm diameter, though 1.7mm thicker, is 100 more metres water-resistant – its 150 metres of water-resistance puts the mind at far more ease should you wish to go for a swim with it on the wrist. Anyone would probably be happy to own either, but, at least in regard to spec and fit, I would genuinely take the Laureato FIFTY as my pick.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY pricing and availability
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY is available now as a limited edition of 200 pieces. Price: US$28,320
| Brand | Girard-Perregaux |
| Model | Laureato FIFTY |
| Reference | 81008-63-3412-1CM |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 9.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel and 3N yellow gold |
| Water Resistance | 150 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Grey, clous de Paris-textured |
| Strap | Case-matching integrated bracelet, butterfly folding clasp, 2mm micro-adjust on each side |
| Movement | GP4800, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Limited to 200 pieces |
| Price | US$28,320 |