Jaeger-LeCoultre continues strong in 2025 with a flurry of Master tourbillon models
Andrew O'Connor- Following a successful and Reverso-heavy Watches and Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils new and refined interpretations of its Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 and Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon.
- The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 sees three new variants: one in rose gold with a brown dial and two in platinum with blue dials, one with a diamond-set bezel.
- The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon also gets a rose gold/brown dial incarnation, which sports a lovely enamelled guilloché dial.
The Master Grande Tradition collection is where Jaeger-LeCoultre presents some of its best and innovative high-end watchmaking. A collection dedicated to their most complex calibres and a focus on beautiful workmanship, models from this collection are aimed to impress even the most experienced and discerning collectors. 2025 might be “the year of the Reverso”, at least according to returning CEO Jérôme Lambert, but JLC has seen fit to give the Master Grande Tradition range a bit of love this September, as well as the Master range more broadly.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985
The Calibre 985 was released in 2013, bringing together a perpetual calendar, moonphase display, and a 60-second flying tourbillon in an automatic winding movement. Consisting of 431 parts, including 49 jewels, the perpetual calendar tracks the day, date, month, and year (including leap years), along with an accurate display of the moon phase for 122 years (assuming it is kept running). It has a 45-hour power reserve with a 28,800 bph beat rate and measures 30mm in diameter and 8.25mm thick. The movement decoration includes blued screws, sunray côtes de Genève, and a 22k gold rotor with sunray engraving and a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the 1851 Grand Exhibition in London.
Jaeger-LeCoultre views its pursuit of maintaining high accuracy and fine finishing standards as a continuation of the achievements of Antoine LeCoultre. One of the features Jaeger-LeCoultre highlights with this model is its ability to manufacture its own S-shaped, cylindrical hairsprings. A development that was invented in 1776, but largely forgotten until the 21st century, Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen to manufacture its own hairsprings in this fashion as it offers more stability in every position, regardless of the amplitude of the balance wheel (how far it oscillates back and forth), and the available power reserve of the mainspring. The use of titanium for the tourbillon cage further capitalises on this development, as the lightness of the cage reduces the tourbillon’s impact on the balance wheel.
The case of the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 is almost as complicated as the movement. Consisting of more than 80 components, the lugs are screwed into the case, and a mix of brushed, polished, and micro-blasted finishes are used on the case, highlighting the intricacies of the case and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ability to achieve high levels of case finishing to complement their high horology movements. Measuring 42mm in diameter and 13.27mm thick, the lugs measure 22mm in width. The lugs on the new versions flow from the case band, as opposed to appearing more structural on the previous version. The case also has 50 meters of water resistance, adding an impressive sense of practicality to a high-complication timepiece.
The dial features the tourbillon at six o’clock, also functioning as a running seconds indication with a twenty-second scale at the bottom of the aperture. The weekday and moon phase display are located at 3 o’clock, the month with year aperture is located at 12 o’clock, and the date is located at 9 o’clock. The two-step dial separates the tourbillon from the rest of the dial and is clearly demarcated by a hand-bevelled edge. The opaline sub-dials feature a micro-blasted finish on the outer edges, as does the outer minute track, framing the dial and sub-dials. 
There are three variations of the new Master Grande Tradition in total: one in rose gold, one in platinum, and another in platinum with a baguette diamond-set bezel. The rose gold variant has a brown dial, with a matching brown alligator strap and an 18k rose gold folding buckle. The platinum variations feature blue dials with matching blue alligator straps and platinum pin buckles. All straps feature quick-release spring bars for easy strap changes.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 pricing and availability
All three new models of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 are available now. Price: upon request
| Brand | Jaeger-LeCoultre |
| Model | Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 |
| Reference | Q5242461 (rose gold w/ brown dial) Q5246580 (platinum w/ blue dial) Q5246508 (platinum w/ blue dial and baguette diamond bezel) |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (W) x 13.27 (T) |
| Case Material | 18k pink gold Platinum |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Brown or blue sunray |
| Strap | Alligator strap colour-matched to dial, 18k rose gold folding buckle for rose gold model, platinum pin-buckle for platinum models |
| Movement | Calibre 985, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar, moonphase, 60-second flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | Upon request |
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel
The Master Ultra-Thin collection is another facet of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s display of watchmaking mastery. Still showcasing complications in many models, the focus of the Ultra-Thin collection is developing movements and cases that allow for streamlined designs and elegant wearing experiences. The new Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel is an elaboration of the existing Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon model, and a continuation of their enamel models from 2019. The real highlight is the charcoal grey dial. The sun-ray finish is achieved by hand guilloché, with each of the 180 “sun-rays” requiring 6 passages of the lathe. After the engraving, it is then hand enamelled, requiring five layers of enamel, each layer requiring firing at 800 degrees Celsius, and then properly cooled, to produce the desired effect of depth and intensity of colour.
The calibre 978 is used in the new Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel. This movement was awarded an International Chronometry prize in 2009, the same year that it was unveiled. It was updated in 2019 to include the titanium tourbillon cage, again to capitalise on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house manufactured hairspring. The calibre 978 measures 7.1mm thick, displays hours, minutes, date via sub-dial at twelve o’clock and running seconds via the tourbillon aperture at six o’clock. This movement operates at 28,800 bph, has a 45-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, and features automatic winding via a gold rotor. The movement is decorated with blued screws, côtes de Genève, and an engraved rotor.
The 18k pink gold case measures 40mm in diameter and 12.13mm thick, and features 50 meters of water resistance. The 21mm strap is made of black alligator, has quick-release spring bars, and comes with a double-folding 18k pink gold buckle.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel pricing and availability
This new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel is available now. Price: upon request
| Brand | Jaeger-LeCoultre |
| Model | Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel |
| Reference | Q13224E2 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (w) x 12.13mm (t) |
| Case Material | 18k pink gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Grey guilloché and enamelled dial |
| Strap | Black alligator strap with 18k rose gold folding buckle |
| Movement | Calibre 978, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, tourbillon |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | Upon request |