Gérald Genta expands the Gentissima collection with a contrasting pair of studded Oursin showstoppers
Tom Austin- The Gentissima Oursin collection expands for Geneva Watch Days 2025 with two stunning yellow gold and rose gold variations.
- The iconic Gérald Genta design, originally inspired by a sea urchin, was reintroduced in 2024, and these two new pieces mark the 5th and 6th watches in the growing Gentissima Oursin collection.
- Both 36mm watches pack a visual and technical punch, with their incredibly unique exteriors hiding a Zenith GG005 Elite automatic calibre inside.
It goes without saying that Gérald Genta is probably the most prolific watch designer of a generation, with his impact on the industry spanning decades, influencing every corner of it with some of his incredible, creative and time-tested designs. An essential aspect of what makes a design great is how a story develops around it, and with Genta’s watches, there are several, including that of the iconic Oursin.
The story started in 1994, when Gérald Genta encountered a sea urchin while travelling in the Mediterranean. Inspired by its form and dimpled surface, he set to work designing a watch with a circular case and rounded, studded surfaces. And so, the Oursin (which is just French for “sea urchin”) was born. Examples of the original are rare, but Genta’s wife, Evelyne, was so fond of it that she had her own unique piece created, and it remains a design she enjoys to this day. 2024 saw the revival of the Gentissima Oursin, with the brand now backed by Louis Vuitton – 2025 now sees another two new executions join the collection.
The first is the Gentissima Oursin 36 Burgundy, perhaps the more feminine of the two, with its 4N rose gold rounded case studs and burgundy details. The 36mm case is crafted from solid 4N rose gold, with a frosted surface created with glass-bead blasting. This is contrasted by 223 highly polished spherical studs that vary in size, set into the case’s surface.
The result is a gorgeous effect you want to constantly play with, gentle and elegant yet tactile and comforting. The well-balanced circular case is almost lug-less, aside from a tiny single lug which protrudes from each side, connecting the strap to the watch. At 36mm, it’s a very wearable size for most wrists, which is unusual for a watch like this and gives the watch a feeling that it’s more of an unisex piece, rather than an all-out ladies-only watch.
The Black Onyx variation is a much more aggressive design, similar in that its 36mm rounded case, this time in 3N yellow gold, is the same as the other model, but instead of rounded studs, it features 223 sharp yellow gold spikes screwed into the surface. Evoking a rebellious, punk-like aesthetic, it reminds me of a studded punk-rocker leather jacket, non-conformist by nature and out to cause havoc.
Both cases feature exhibition casebacks and sapphire crystals for functionality, and manage to secure a 30-meter water resistance, but as usual with watches like this, there’s little need for more, as it’s unlikely you’d want to take them swimming.
The Oursin collection, aside from the Fire Opal, which was released in January, is somewhat understated when it comes to adventurous colourways, so the Burgundy is a welcome addition. The burgundy version’s dial colour is derived from the rich hues of a Tall Bearded Iris flower, which was a significant influence on designer Matthieu Hegi when creating the latest designs. The surface of the dial is finished with an octagonal guilloche pattern that catches light from every angle, and features case-matching 4N rose gold hands to give the dial a warm glow.
The guilloche pattern of the dial complements the natural flow of the design, drawing inspiration from the petals of the Iris flower it’s based upon. Something I’m sure Gérald himself would have happily approved of, considering how the original Oursin design was inspired by nature.
Octagonal patterns are a recurring theme in the Oursin collection, and the Black Onyx model continues this theme, with the dial, crafted from black onyx stone, featuring the same hexagonal patterns shaved into its surface. The result is highly reflective of course, but the alternating facets play with the light, while remaining a deep, lucious black.
The dial is broken up with yellow gold-studded hour markers and a subtle grey printed minute track, contrasting with polished yellow gold hands. The black and yellow gold combination is a classic, and further adds to that punk-rocker look.
Both watches are powered by the Zenith Elite base GG-005 calibre, an automatic movement which has seen some subtle modifications to the rotor to match the brand and the watches’ unique appearance. The 4Hz beat rate, along with a serviceable 50-hour power reserve, suggests this is based on the Elite 670 automatic calibre. Gérald Genta has introduced a unique-looking hexagonal 18k gold rotor, featuring a stippled surface finish, similar to that of the case. It’s not ground-breaking, but the movement does look pretty awesome through the sapphire case back, and it is unusual to see on a watch like this.
The Burgundy arrives on a traditional calf skin leather strap, in a dial-matching burgundy. It’s thin and elegant, and complements the dial well, but it’s undoubtedly the more toned-down strap of the two. I say this because the Black Onyx version comes equipped with a pebbled black leather bund-style strap, which, while it may divide opinion as bund straps often do, I must say looks pretty awesome. The pebbled black leather appears to be a perfect match for a heavily worn, leather rocker-style biker jacket, lending the watch bags of character.
Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin 36 Burgundy & Black Onyx pricing and availability
The Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin 36 Burgundy & Black Onyx are both available from October 2025. Price: CHF 27,000 (Burgundy), CHF 29,000 (Black Onyx)
| Brand | Gérald Genta |
| Model | Gentissima Oursin |
| Reference | EECD01A1 (Burgundy 36) EECE02A1 (Black Onyx 36) |
| Case Dimensions | 36mm (D) x 9.6mm (T) |
| Case Material | 4N rose gold (Burgundy 36) 3N yellow gold (Black Onyx 36) |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Burgundy hexagonal guilloche Black onyx |
| Bracelet | Burgundy calf skin leather strap Black exotic leather bund strap |
| Movement | GG-005, Zenith Elite base, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours and minutes |
| Availability | October 2025 |
| Price | CHF 27,000 (Burgundy 36) CHF 29,000 (Black Onyx 36) |