Bianchet’s new UltraFino is here to break records with a new full sapphire tourbillon
Tom Austin- Swiss family-owned luxury watch brand Bianchet has unveiled its latest creation, the UltraFino Sapphire, which is now the thinnest full-sapphire tourbillon watch in the world, measuring just 9.8mm in thickness.
- The tonneau-shaped case is crafted entirely from a solid piece of transparent sapphire crystal, allowing the wearer to see every detail inside the watch, and it brings a flamboyant flair to an already extreme design.
- The UltraFino Sapphire is powered by the UT01 tourbillon calibre, which features hand-finished titanium bridges and a solid gold oscillating rotor, and (of course) a tourbillon escapement.
Watch brands love to push boundaries and strive to break new records. Some are more obvious, such as the world’s thinnest watch, while others can be a little more niche. Bianchet’s latest offering is indeed a world first, but it leans more towards the niche end of the record spectrum, as the world’s thinnest fully sapphire watch with a tourbillon. Bianchet propose that the UltraFino Sapphire is built to endure everyday wear, yet remains refined and elegant while pushing the boundaries of materials and aesthetics. Let’s find out more.
The UltraFino Sapphire has a very familiar look, boasting a confident tonneau-shaped case. It seems to be the default shape for certain brands to work towards when producing an ultra-high-end, ultra-modern design – it’s an aesthetic that I dare say is starting to look a little mid-2000s, but that’s for another story… That’s not to take anything away from the craftsmanship in the UltraFino, because sapphire is notoriously difficult to work with, and achieving this level of perfection at much thinner proportions than the competition is no mean feat.
The fully transparent case measures 40mm in width, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.5mm, and a thickness of 9.8mm. Comparable sapphire watches have, to date, only achieved a thickness of around 11-12mm, so the proportions of the UltraFino are notable, for sure. The finish on the case is sublime, with chamfered edges on all facets, and a gentle curve across the top that keeps it wearable on the wrist. Functionally, Bianchet have managed to squeeze a 50-meter water resistance rating out of this UltraFino, too, and while it’s no dive watch, it’s still an improvement over most of its sapphire competitors. This is due to the white rubber gasket that separates the case: while it does somewhat compromise the transparency of the sapphire, it nevertheless lends the watch a light and airy appearance.
These kinds of watches are all about visual impact, and if the case isn’t impactful enough, the dial definitely manages to tick that box. The dial is fully skeletonised, incorporating the watch’s movement entirely into the design itself, apart from a thin grey minute track around the outside perimeter. The movement inside is the Bianchet UT01 Tourbillon calibre, which is an ultra-thin self-winding movement developed by Bianchet’s atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Made predominantly from titanium, the appearance is monochromatic, while the hand-finished details become prominent the closer you look. For example, the satin-brushed and polished grade 5 titanium bridges take around fifteen hours to complete, and look stunning as a result.
The structure of the movement is based around Fibonacci spirals, which becomes much clearer when viewing the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback. The Fibonacci spiral theme is continued through into the solid 18k gold rotor, which is itself shaped into twelve interlacing spirals, guided by the visually appealing Golden Ratio. As the watch’s name suggests, the movement features a flying tourbillon at six o’clock, which beats at 3Hz and also features a full titanium cage. Despite the delicate complication, the movement has already proven to be robust, as evidenced by recent testing on the wrist of Kazakh tennis player Alexander Bublik, which supports Bianchet’s claim that the movement is surprisingly shock-resistant to 5000 G’s.
The curves of the UltraFino Sapphire’s case flow seamlessly into an integrated rubber strap, which comes standard in white vulcanised rubber and is finished with a titanium folding clasp. Additionally, the watch is supplied with a black rubber strap; however, the white option is visually more appealing here. The strap is supple and straightforward, offering an ergonomic and hassle-free wear that complements the case’s curves and shapes.
Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire pricing and availability
The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire is available directly from Bianchet, with a 10% deposit up front. Price: CHF 85,500
| Brand | Bianchet |
| Model | UltraFino Sapphire |
| Reference | UFFTSKSPWH |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 9.8mm (T) x 47.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Sapphire |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Skeletonised |
| Strap | White rubber with titanium folding clasp, additional black rubber strap |
| Movement | Bianchet UT01, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 85,500 |