Nivada Grenchen’s Antarctic GMT returns in a 36mm Hodinkee limited edition
Jason Lee- Hodinkee’s first limited edition since its acquisition by Watches of Switzerland is an understated, extremely considered retro tool watch.
- It’s modelled after a rare 1960s Antarctic GMT, the ref. 87013, that surfaced through the Hodinkee Shop.
- It combines mid-century proportions with oodles of modern lume and compressor-style GMT functionality.
Nivada Grenchen may be an unfamiliar name to some readers, but the brand’s roots stretch back to 1926 in Grenchen, Switzerland, where it built a reputation for practical, purpose‑built tool watches. After a prolonged dormancy through the quartz era, Nivada was revived in 2018 by Guillaume Laidet and Rémi Chabrat with a program of faithful re‑editions; notably, our friends at Hodinkee emerged as an early retail partner during that comeback. (Editor’s note: Time+Tide is a retail partner of the brand, too!)
The company’s mid‑century field watch, introduced as the Aquamatic and later renamed “Antarctic” following its association with the U.S. Navy’s Operation Deep Freeze (1955–56), remains the brand’s central through‑line: utilitarian, legible, and sized to wear daily rather than to dominate a wrist. Seven years after that revival, Nivada and Hodinkee are collaborating on the Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee. The project is presented as Hodinkee’s first limited edition since the company’s acquisition by Watches of Switzerland late last year, setting the release against a moment of refocus for the New York‑based media brand.
As its name signals, the Antarctic GMT Limited Edition is a vintage‑leaning take on travel‑time practicality. The design draws directly from a rare 1960s Antarctic GMT, reference 87013, that surfaced through the Hodinkee Shop, and which Nivada points to as a touchstone in the broader resurrection of the Antarctic GMT line. In practice, that means a matte grey dial, an internal 24‑hour bezel operated by a secondary crown, and a high‑contrast approach to visibility, with full‑length luminous treatment applied not only to the markers and handset but also to the internal bezel and even the dial text.
Compared with the mainline Antarctic GMT, the limited edition emphasises higher water resistance (100 metres), a trimmer profile, and a more stripped‑back, legibility‑first dial. The case is executed in 316L stainless steel and measures 36mm in diameter by 11.1mm in thickness, nearly two millimetres thinner than the 12.75mm figure cited for the earlier Antarctic GMT. Lug‑to‑lug is a compact 40mm, with a versatile 20mm lug width.
Finishing is restrained: the top surface is vertically brushed, nodding to the vintage EPSA compressor aesthetic, with polished areas near the lugs providing crisp contrast. The crystal moves to sapphire for this edition and, according to the brand, that upgrade is tied to a doubling of water resistance—from 50 metres to 100 metres—bringing the spec in line with the Antarctic’s tool‑watch positioning.
Operation is straightforward. A dual‑crown system separates tasks: the crown at two o’clock turns the internal 24‑hour ring, while the four o’clock crown, in its first position, adjusts the GMT hand and date; pulled to the second position, it sets local time on the 12‑hour display. The dial uses a minimal, period‑adjacent layout. At 12 o’clock sits the full “Nivada Grenchen” wordmark rather than the script “Antarctic,” which is omitted here, while a restrained “Automatic GMT” at six o’clock balances the lower half of the dial. The white elements—the hour markers, handset, internal GMT scale, and even the applied writing—are filled in Super‑LumiNova that emits a green glow, creating a consistent night‑time signature and a deliberate high‑contrast look by day.
Inside is the Soprod C125, an automatic movement beating at 4 Hz with a 42‑hour power reserve. The closed caseback carries individual numbering to 225 pieces and features a steel “penguin” medallion—an explicit nod to mid‑century Antarctics that used a gold‑tone medallion, translated here into stainless steel to match the case.
On the wrist, the dimensions suggest an unobtrusive presence. A 36mm footprint and 40mm lug‑to‑lug put it firmly in mid‑century territory, and the 11.1mm thickness should slide under a cuff easily. The vertical brushing across the upper case adds a pragmatic note, while the polished accents prevent the watch from reading as overly austere. The package ships with two grey options—an abrasion‑friendly NATO and a suede leather strap—both of which keep the palette consistent with the dial.
Closing thoughts
The upshot is a compact GMT that leans into Nivada’s strongest historical narrative without turning into a facsimile. The case is thinner than before, the water resistance is higher, and the functionality is neatly divided between two crowns—a set of choices that feels thought through rather than ornamental.
If the brief was to make a travel‑ready Antarctic that reads cleanly by day and unmistakably after dark, the specification lands on target. For readers who prefer modest sizing and a dial uncluttered by branding, this is a collaboration that keeps its emphasis on use. And for those tracking how post‑acquisition Hodinkee handles limited editions, this one is a gently stated marker rather than a grand gesture.
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Hodinkee Limited Edition pricing and availability
The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Hodinkee Limited Edition is limited to 225 pieces total, and is available now exclusively from Watches of Switzerland (online, Soho & American Dream stores). Price: US$1,740
| Brand | Nivada Grenchen |
| Model | Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee |
| Reference | 32073A |
| Case Dimensions | 36mm (D) x 11.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Matte grey 11C |
| Strap | Grey NATO and grey suede leather strap |
| Movement | Soprod C125, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT |
| Availability | Limited to 225 pieces |
| Price | US$1,740 |