Jaeger-LeCoultre pays homage to the 1940s with a gorgeous grey sector dial Master Control Calendar
Jamie Weiss- Jaeger-LeCoultre, evoking its renowned triple calendar watches of the 1940s, unveils a stylish limited edition take on the Master Control Calendar.
- Cased in steel, its two-tone and grained sector dial gives it a real retro look.
- Its Calibre 866 notably features a jumping date hand, so as not to obscure the moonphase display at 6 o’clock mid-month.
Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar is one of the most underrated and quietly impressive timepieces in the esteemed watchmaker’s range. At the risk of being facile, if it had a Holy Trinity brand’s logo on its dial, it’s the sort of watch mainstream enthusiasts would go nutso for – yet it’s long flown under the radar. Jaeger-LeCoultre has seen fit to right that wrong, it seems, with their latest, limited edition take on the Master Control Calendar formula, which offers a bit of Mid-Century panache while remaining eminently versatile.
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One of the standard Master Control Calendar’s biggest strengths is also its biggest weakness: it’s very subtly styled. Almost austerely styled. A silver sunray dial housed in either a stainless steel or pink gold case, it’s utterly inoffensive and timeless, but it doesn’t shift the needle. However, for this new limited edition, the ref. Q4148450, JLC has drawn inspiration from a very specific point in history: the 1940s, a tumultuous decade but one that saw the “watchmaker’s watchmaker” produce some of its most exquisite and collectible triple calendar watches. To pay homage to this period, JLC have graced the Master Control Calendar with a two-tone grey grained sector dial.
This modern Master Control Calendar’s dial isn’t a recreation of any one vintage reference’s dial, but instead borrows design cues from a range of watches, such as the similarly sector-dialled “Duo Date” ref. 2701, but utilising the indices and calendar layout of a triple calendar like the ref. 2904. However, none of the calendar watches JLC made in the 40s had this sort of grained texture, nor this sort of two-tone finesse. The result is a dial that feels both retro and contemporary all at once: it’s still a grey dial, so let’s not get crazy here, but it’s remarkable how much more visually interesting it makes this watch! The dauphine hands, too, are just *chef’s kiss*.
The other visually exciting trick this watch brings to the table is courtesy of its calibre 866 complete calendar movement. You’ll notice that between the 5 and 7 o’clock markers, there are no date indications, with there being a big gap between the 15th and 16th. That’s because the calibre 866’s date hand actually jumps between these two positions, so that the moonphase display and small seconds at 6 o’clock aren’t obscured by the hand on those dates. This isn’t just technically impressive, but it’s also extremely user-friendly and speaks to the understated brilliance of this watch.
The calibre 866 isn’t a one-trick pony, though. Despite its complete calendar complications, it offers a robust, automatically-wound 70-hour power reserve, and is finished to a high standard, with côtes de Genève across its bridges and rotor plus countersunk jewels and fine bevelling. The ref. Q4148450’s stainless steel case is nicely finished, too, with a polished bezel and lugs giving way to finely brushed case sides, punctuated by small pushers for the calendar functions and demarcated by a broad polished bevel.
As the model name of the watch implies, the whole watch is subjected to JLC’s Master Control testing regime, an intense six-week testing regime first introduced in 1992 with rigorous checks across multiple positions, power levels, temperatures, plus tests of its shock- and water-resistance. Finally, it comes mounted on a black calfskin leather strap with a deployant clasp for a classic and comfortable fit.
Closing thoughts
Sometimes it’s hard to pin down why you like a watch so much, or how a small tweak to a single element can radically change the way a watch looks or wears. That’s what JLC has done here with this sector dial for the Master Control Calendar. It’s just a new dial, and it’s not an aesthetic that’s unprecedented for the brand. But it just works so well. It’s still very sartorially versatile, but the addition of that grained texture and two-tone gives it just enough pizazz to make it feel more exceptional. It’s a subtle tweak, but it’s a subtle watch – JLC haven’t compromised its essential understated nature. It’s deft, and very Jaeger-LeCoultre. It’s almost a shame that it’s a limited edition, but I guess for something to be exquisite, to be different, it can’t be for everybody…
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Q4148450 pricing and availability
This sector dial Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar is a limited edition of 500 pieces, available now from Jaeger-LeCoultre dealers. Price: A$25,700
| Brand | Jaeger-LeCoultre |
| Model | Master Control Calendar |
| Reference Number | Q4148450 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 10.95mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Two-tone grey sector |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Black calfskin leather, deployant clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 866, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, calendar with central jumping hand, moonphase |
| Availability | Limited edition of 500 pieces |
| Price | A$25,700 |