Sartory Billard brings ravishing Japanese raden to the SB04‑E Small Bang
Jason Lee- We’re used to seeing eye-catching, imaginative dials from Sartory Billard, but their latest piece, the 20-piece limited edition SB04-E Small Bang, shows off a technique rarely seen in watchmaking: raden.
- This Japanese craft is the art of slicing mother-of-pearl into thin layers, cutting them by hand, and embedding them into still-wet lacquer, with the nature of the technique meaning each execution is totally unique.
- The result is a three-dimensional dial that resembles a multicoloured supernova radiating out from the central pinion.
Sartory Billard is a young independent with a clear point of view: make small‑series watches that foreground craft and the people who practice it. Founded in 2015 by French designer Armand Billard, the brand’s public‑facing materials emphasise bespoke work, collaborations with named artisans, and a made‑to‑order mentality that privileges dialogue with collectors. That approach has won it a following among enthusiasts who value transparent credit and individuality over template designs. The latest release, the SB04‑E Small Bang, distils that philosophy into a compact daily‑wear package with a dial that truly is the story.
Available in two colourways—green or purple—each dial is made by Tatsuya Todo (also known as Kosetsu), a certified traditional craftsman of Yamanaka lacquerware. Todo was born in 1954, apprenticed under master makers, and has exhibited widely in Japan; Sartory Billard credits him prominently and notes that every dial he creates is one‑of‑a‑kind. The edition is a retailer collaboration, produced exclusively for Philadelphia-based independent brand specialist Martin Pulli.
If the technique is unfamiliar, raden is a centuries‑old Japanese method that inlays ultra‑thin slices of mother‑of‑pearl into lacquer. The work is slow and unforgiving: shells are shaved into hair‑thin lamellae, cut by hand, and set piece by piece with tweezers before natural drying, polishing and further refinement. Any misstep can force a reset, and a single dial takes many days. The payoff is a surface that reads alive, with tones of green, violet and blue that shift with light in a way paint cannot replicate; by nature, no two are identical.
Sartory Billard calls this presentation a “world premiere in raden artistry on the wrist,” and the layout backs up the claim to novelty. From the centre, hair‑thin mother‑of‑pearl strips radiate outward in a precise, graphic starburst—hence “Small Bang.” Around the perimeter, beneath a sapphire minute ring, small round particles of shell appear to float, like debris suspended after an explosion. To keep it wearable rather than purely ornamental, the brand specifies diamond‑cut luminous hands and indexes that stand up against the busy dial.
Both colourways lean into the material’s natural range. The green edition reads emerald to turquoise and is delivered on a black rubber strap; the purple edition leans deep violet with hints of blue and arrives on a dark‑blue rubber strap. In both cases, Sartory Billard includes an additional stainless steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links and quick‑release pins, allowing tool‑less swaps.
The case itself is restrained, by design. At 39.5 mm in stainless steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, it’s intended to frame rather than compete with the dial. Sartory Billard describes the profile as ergonomic—slim yet robust, hugging the wrist and disappearing in wear—with 100 m of water resistance that supports genuine daily use. The combination of lume, a clearly legible handset and a versatile strap/bracelet kit underlines the aim: artistic dial, practical watch. Inside is a Swiss automatic from La Joux‑Perret with a 68‑hour power reserve: Sartory Billard doesn’t specify figures here, but the specification will be familiar to collectors who have encountered recent LJP‑equipped independents.
Closing thoughts
Context matters for a piece like this. Many brands use mother‑of‑pearl to chase sheen across a flat dial; fewer commit to a traditional inlay technique that requires days of handwork and introduces controlled irregularity. Sartory Billard makes the distinction explicit, positioning raden as “authentic craft” rather than industrial decoration. Paired with an understated case and everyday specs, the SB04‑E lands as a wearable platform that foregrounds material and maker. For collectors who value named artisanship—and for those who appreciate when a brand tells you who actually made the dial—this will read as a coherent extension of Sartory Billard’s identity.
Sartory-Billard SB04‑E Small Bang pricing and availability
The Sartory-Billard SB04-E Small Bang is available now exclusively from Martin Pulli. Price: €9,950, US$11,700
| Brand | Sartory Billard |
| Model | Small Bang |
| Reference | SB04-E |
| Case Dimensions | 39.5mm (D) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Green or purple mother-of-pearl; Japanese raden crafted |
| Strap | Black or dark blue rubber strap Complementary stainless steel bracelet |
| Movement | La Joux-Perret, exact calibre not stated, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 68 hours |
| Functions | Hours and minutes |
| Availability | Limited to 10 pieces per colour |
| Price | €9,950 US$11,700 |