Vacheron Constantin debuts new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin configurations
Zach BlassVacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a range that many would categorise as a grail watch collection. Prized for slender design, high complication, and handsome aesthetics, whether the solid dial models or the openworked models, this is a design with a sizeable fanbase. There were already a fair number of options to explore, but two new watches have just came out today. One is a more monochromatic execution in pink gold, while the other white gold variant has a rich, contrasting dial hue. Let’s get into it.
The case
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a 41.5mm watch that is just 8.1mm thick, which may not constitute ultra-thin within a category such as the dress watch category. But, it is certainly very thin for a high-complication watch like a perpetual calendar. It is also notably 49mm lug-to-lug, so I would say it will wear well on any wrist close to average-sized or larger. A final point on case spec, the cases are rated to be 50 metres water-resistant, so, while I would not endorse wearing one while diving, you could technically be safe at the surface – but at the very least you can take solace in the fact if you encounter rain or get splashed that you will not need to run to your nearest Vacheron Constantin boutique.
As you would expect from a member of the Holy Trinity, the case and its matching bracelet have a high level of finishing performed on their surfaces. The majority of the case and bracelet features a rich satin brush, with accents such as the Maltese-cross inspired bezel, the bevelled edges of the case lugs mirror-polished.
The dial
As I already spoiled, we have one execution in 18k 5N pink gold and one in 18k white gold. The pink gold model is largely monochromatic, with a dial executed in golden-toned translucent lacquer that has a satin-sunburst finish. The sub-dials of the perpetual calendar have a snailed finish, and as you reach the edge of the dial, the flange has what Vacheron Constantin calls a “velvet finish”.
The hands and applied hour indices are also forged in pink gold, and even the moonphase disc and the moons on it are made of pink gold. Aside from the blue-emitting white luminous fillings within the hours and minutes hands and the applied hour indices, the only other subtle injection of colour can be found in the minute track that is marked in blue, and the leap year quadrant of the month indicator is also denoted in blue. For clarity, each quadrant of the month indicator indicates 12 months; thus, the repetition of January, April, July, and October and the blue section indicating the 12 months within the leap year every 4 years. So, no, it is not a misprint.
The white gold model takes the opposite route. Instead of having a silver or case-matching dial tone, Vacheron Constantin has opted to have a punch of colour contrast the white metal with a burgundy lacquer dial that shares the same finishing style and layout as the gold-toned dial. There is even a similar injection of cyan blue for the minutes track and the leap-year sector of the month indicator. But on this dial, the hands, applied hour indices, and the moons on the moonphase disc are fabricated in 18k white gold to match the case. And the moonphase is perhaps easier to discern with 18k white gold moons applied to a dial-matching burgundy backdrop.
The straps
Continuing the finish and lines of the case, the bracelet is also largely satin brushed, but it is not just the shoulder edges of the bracelet that are bevelled – all of the surrounding edges of the Maltese cross-shaped links are mirror-polished. These lines of polish, as they articulate, just ooze luxury and showcase the exceedingly high standards at which Vacheron Constantin fabricates and designs its watches.
The bracelet is secured to the wrist via a butterfly folding clasp, and can be attached or removed from the case with ease thanks to Vacheron Constantin’s interchangeable strap system, which also allows you to swap in your choice of two bundled rubber straps, which we will touch on in a bit. And for the record, the bracelet also features an Easy-Fit adjustment system that provides on-the-fly extension on both sides of the clasp.
To complement their respective aesthetics, the pink gold variant is bundled with two interchangeable rubber straps, one in dark blue and another in white.
On the other hand, the white gold variant includes a dial-matching red/burgundy rubber strap alongside a white rubber strap.
These straps are robust yet supple, very comfortable on the wrist, and are secured to the wrist via a case-matching buckle that has its own interchangeable system that allows you to quickly swap it between the straps.
The movement
Both models are driven by the Geneva Hallmark-certified in-house automatic 1120 QP/1 ultra-thin movement. Not only is it a very technical calibre, but it is also a very nice calibre to look at. The decoration of the movement is very refined and elegant with its hand-finished striping, chamfering, perlage, and a handsomely engraved 22K gold rotor.
At just 4.05mm thick, the 1120 QP/1 is what ultimately allows the case to be a slender 8.1mm thick. It’s a 40-hour automatic calibre, so it does not have the longest of power reserves. Therefore, I would recommend getting a winder for this watch, as I would for any perpetual calendar, to keep the watch ticking and all of the indications and the time always set. I use a Wolf Rocket travel winder for my personal perpetual calendar watch, and it is an absolute lifesaver – especially if you are not yet fluent with all the case correctors that manually correct the indications on your perpetual calendar watch.
Speaking of indications, as a perpetual calendar, the watch is able to indicate the hours and minutes, the current day, date, and month, and indicate the phase of the moon. It even has a leap year indicator as well. Perpetual calendars are like mechanical computers, so this is a watch that, so long as the power reserve is not depleted, thus the winder recommendation, will not need to be manually corrected until the year 2100.
The verdict
I think the rose-lensed sunglasses I always wear give it away here, but my personal pick would be the white gold variant with its powerful burgundy lacquer dial that really stands out to me. I am also normally team bracelet over strap, and would certainly wear this watch on a bracelet often. But, I could actually, in this instance, really see myself wearing it on the dial-matching strap.
I appreciate that in the white gold configuration, as well, that you have a strap that perfectly matches the dial. Though I do think it was best that Vacheron Constantin opted for a dark blue rubber strap rather than a dial-matching strap for the pink gold variant, affording more contrast for a watch that is very monochromatic on its bracelet.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin pricing and availability
This new duo of Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watches are available now for enquiries. Price: €111,650 (excl. VAT)
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin |
| Reference | 4300V/220R-H144 4300V/220G-H151 |
| Case Dimensions | 41.5mm (D) x 8.1mm (T) x 49mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 18k 5N pink gold (4300V/220R-H144) 18k white gold (4300V/220G-H151) |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Golden-toned, sunburst-lacquered finish (18k 5N pink gold) Burgundy, sunburst-lacquered finish (18k white gold) |
| Strap | Case-matching interchangeable bracelet, butterfly clasp, Easy-Fit adjustment Dark blue and white interchangeable rubber straps, interchangeable 18k 5N pink gold buckle Burgundy and white interchangeable rubber straps, interchangeable 18k white gold buckle |
| Movement | 1120 QP/1, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 40 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar (day, date, month, moonphase, leap year indications) |
| Availability | Now, for enquiries |
| Price | €111,650 (excl. VAT) |