The Raymond Weil Toccata brings classical music to classical watch design
Russell SheldrakeI love the creativity and meanings that can be found in watch names. So, when Raymond Weil brings me a new model in its Toccata line, images of a musical virtuoso sitting at a grand piano dressed in formalwear as their fingers fly across the keys will always spring to mind. And this new iteration dials up the classical traits with a clean dial, refigured case and lug design, and the proportions to match.
As we approach party season here in the Northern Hemisphere, it seems like the perfect time for this kind of dress watch. Something a little new, shaped, and traditional. This new oval Toccata comes in two sizes, each with a different type of movement and various case and dial options; you can even get some lab-grown diamonds included in the smaller piece.
The case
The case and its shape of this new Toccata are the first things that are going to strike you about it. Its oval shape stands out as being extremely classical in its execution. With associations that link it to the Patek Philippe Ellipse series, among many others, you won’t find this anywhere apart from in dress watches.
Something slightly unusual about this example when compared to others is the fact that it actually has lugs. You will typically find that most oval or ellipse cases are lugless, but here we have a set of lugs that have been redesigned from the older models to be shorter and thinner. This redesign leaves the case feeling more elegant and more at home in the dress watch category.
As mentioned above, there are two case sizes available here. The bigger one measures 33 mm by 38mm and houses a mechanical movement, while the smaller one is 31mm by 36mm and houses a quartz movement. Both of these are available in stainless steel or rose gold PVD, while the quartz model is also available in yellow gold PVD with the option of adding lab-grown diamonds to the bezel of the steel or rose gold PVD models. Both versions are pretty thin, under 7mm, with the mechanical measuring 6.95mm and the quartz just 5.1mm – an essential characteristic for a true dress watch.
The dial
Continuing that theme of leaning into the dress watch aesthetic, these dials are an education in traditional design. We have a number of colours available, all of which fit into the aesthetic we would expect, with silver, blue, red, and copper. The sunray finish that is applied across all colours is perfect for a watch that you want to wear for special occasions, as it will subtly catch the light when you angle it, but will not shout and grab attention away from the rest of your formal wear.
The dials are also completely unobstructed, with short baton markers being the only dial furniture applied, with the Raymond Weil wordmark and minute track printed on in a very unobtrusive way that keeps the dial clean enough for the sunburst texture to have its full effect. There is also no seconds hand on either of these models, so the only way to tell which is mechanical and which is quartz is the size of the case and turning it over to see the sapphire window for the mechanical version. The dauphine minute and hour hands are nicely polished and match the baton markers well – keeping everything elegant and thin.
The movements
As we’ve already covered, there are two movements here: a mechanical and a quartz. The mechanical is a manual wind RW4100 calibre, which is a Sellita base that can be viewed through the sapphire crystal. There is some very light finishing applied to it, with blued screws and red synthetic rubies standing out as pops of colour. This is a fairly simple movement that won’t be blowing anyone away, but it keeps the watch thin and allows you to maintain it with relative ease wherever you are in the world. The quartz movement again is ideal for keeping the watch size down and the level of convenience up.
The straps
Here we get a couple of options, with the classical calf leather strap being the most obvious choice for this style of watch. It comes in either grey, blue or green, depending on the iteration you pick up. There is also a very smart five-link bracelet that you can have on the steel mechanical and quartz versions, or the rose PVD quartz model. A bracelet on a dress watch isn’t conventional, but opting for a more delicate five-link is far more fitting than other options.
The verdict
The name of this watch conjures up images of nights at the opera or grand classical music venues where state balls might be held, and the aesthetic of it certainly lives up to that billing. The considered design brings together a lot of classical elements into a refined timepiece that would not look out of place with any formalwear. However, it manages all of this while keeping the price achievable to those of us who will likely never be invited to these grand occasions. But there’s nothing wrong with owning something like this, just in case you do.
Raymond Weil Toccata pricing and availability
The new Raymond Weil Toccata is available now. Price: from US$1,675 (mechanical), from US$1,195 (quartz)
| Brand | Raymond Weil |
| Model | Toccata |
| Case Dimensions | 33mm x 38mm (D) x 6.95mm (T) 31mm x 36mm (D) x 5.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel Rose gold PVD Yellow gold PVD |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Silver, red, blue, or brass sunray brushed |
| Strap | Calf leather in grey, blue, or green, pin buckle Matching five-link bracelet |
| Movement | RW4100, Sellita base, manual-winding Swiss quartz |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours Not listed |
| Functions |
Hours and minutes
|
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$1,675 – mechanical, steel case, leather strap US$1,785 – mechanical, steel case, bracelet US$1,825 – mechanical, rose gold PVD case US$1,195 – quartz, steel case, leather strap US$1,450 – quartz, yellow gold PVD case US$2,245 – quartz, steel case, bracelet, diamond bezel US$2,625 – quartz, rose gold PVD case, bracelet, diamond bezel |