The 10 watches to keep an eye on at the Antiquorum Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces auction
Russell SheldrakeAuction season is well and truly upon us, and that means we have some extremely exciting watches about to go under the hammer. This is one of my favourite times of year, as you get to see and learn about watches that you would never otherwise get the chance to – but with such a wide variety always on offer, it can be hard to know where to look. And when you have a catalogue as deep as Antiquorum’s upcoming Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces‘ one, with over 600 lots, it can be quite overwhelming.
That’s why I’ve spent all my spare time poring over every lot to find the hidden gems that you need to know about. I had a hard time whittling the list down to just 10 as I found myself stopping every few lots exclaiming, “Ooh, that’s cool” or “I haven’t seen that in a while” and so while this list has what I consider to be the most noteworthy watches, just know that I had to leave a lot on the editing room floor. So take this as a jumping-off point if you want to discover more of what this packed catalogue has to offer!
A quick note: these are in no particular order, so feel free to scroll through and find what piques your interest, but there is hopefully something in here for everyone, and representative of what an eclectic catalogue this truly is. The team at Antiquorum certainly have a big job on their hands over November 8th and 9th when conducting the auction to get through all these lots…
Lot 129: Urban Jürgensen ref. 8
As many may know, Urban Jürgensen has recently been revived, and in doing so, a new focus has been brought to the brand’s older pieces. This example of a ref. 8 comes from an illustrious period in the brand’s history, after being bought by Peter Baumberger and mechanically revived by Derek Pratt, these watches are some of the most interesting to be produced in the late 90s. Inside is a wonderfully worked Frederique Piguet movement that demonstrates all of Derek Pratt’s skill in finishing. The delicacy of the guilloche dial and rose gold case work together fantastically to create a watch that feels dressy without being flashy. A great pick up for those who can afford it. Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 50,000.
Lot 134: Heuer Monaco ref. 1133
Racing chronographs don’t come more legendary than the Heuer Monaco, and this might just be my favourite configuration of the square-cased timer that has ever been produced. The original model to hold the Calibre 11 that brought automatic winding to the chronograph, and this blue dial with its white sub-dials is the defining aesthetic of the Monaco. And when you can access this level of icon for less than five figures, it is very hard to pass up, although this one may need some work done to it if you want to keep it in working order… Estimate: CHF 2,000 – 4,000.
Lot 30: Omega Seamaster 300
If we are talking about watches that started it all, 1957 was a very important year for Omega as they launched the original ‘professional trilogy’ of the Speedmaster, Railmaster, and this, the Seamaster 300. This trio would set the foundation of the brand for the next 70 years, and this example of the famous diver carries every hallmark of a well-loved watch. The lume has fallen out of the minute hand, and the lugs look to be a little rounded, but there is still a lot to love about it. Estimate: CHF 2,000 – 4,000.
Lot 287: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700/1
From one icon to another, it’s hard to move through this catalogue without bumping into one. The original Patek Philippe Nautilus is impossible to pass over. The ref. 3700 is the watch that started the craze, with its Genta-sketched porthole design introducing the concept of stainless steel sports luxury to Patek customers (even if Audemars Piguet beat them to the punch). I won’t pretend that this example is in the best condition; in fact, that dial has certainly seen better days. However, I think there is something rather charming about having a watch that shows its age and has lived a life… But I certainly don’t think you should be paying a premium for it, so its estimate seems pretty fair. While the market may be getting softer on the newer models, these originals will never go out of style. Estimate: CHF 70,000 – 120,000.
Lot 576: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Rectangular” ref. 6009
This one is a bit more left-field than the previous watches. Not your standard Royal Oak, this smaller, squared watch speaks to a lot of trends happening right now, as case diameters shrink in size across the industry. I won’t hear anyone call this a “ladies’ watch” with any sense of prejudice, as that would be oversimplifying and almost belittling what I think is one of the better iterations of the Royal Oak design, as it brings a sense of originality to what is now an overly copied and iterated silhouette. This watch offers something a bit different if you are looking to wear a watch to your next get-together that no one else in the room will have on, yet will still command respect from everyone there. Estimate: CHF 12,000 – 25,000.
Lot 16: Omega Deville Co-Axial
When we talk about meaningful progression and development in the watch industry over the last fifty years, the co-axial escapement is always top of the list. The George Daniels invention spent a long time on the master watchmaker’s workbench or inside his pocket watches, but struggled to find an industrialised and commercialised home. And while this isn’t the first watch that Omega made that featured the epic escapement, it represents an incredibly meaningful moment in the industry, when one of the biggest brands in the world took a chance on this innovation, and it ended up becoming a core part of their offering moving forward. Estimate: CHF 4,000 – 6,000.
Lot 522: Rolex Submariner ‘Big Crown’ ref. 5510
While this isn’t the model that Bond wore in Dr No, it is the next step in the evolution of the legendary Rolex Submariner, and I don’t think it should be overlooked, just because it was never issued a license to kill. It still carries all of that incredible DNA that we know and love from vintage Submariners. With many watches from this era, there are imperfections that may make this lot slightly less desirable to some, with rounded and polished lugs, and the possibility of the lume being reapplied. But the design language is just as strong as ever, and there are still lots of signs of aging that you’d hope to see in a model of this age. Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 50,000.
Lot 59: Zenith El Primero ref. SP 1301
There are a lot of amazing chronographs in this sale, and you can probably tell from my selections that I found it hard to only pick a few of them, but it would have been criminal of me to leave out this incredibly good-looking example of one of the first automatic chronographs in the world. Finding one of these from the 70s is not easy, given that production stopped pretty soon after it began, thanks to the devastation of the quartz crisis. The dial might not be the cleanest, but the colour of the sub-dials and outer track is almost perfect for those looking for this faded, cappuccino look. Estimate: CHF 2,000 – 4,000.
Lot 78: Vacheron Constantin aluminium pocket watch
This is likely the most confusing watch on my list. Not only is it a pocket watch, but it’s made from one of the most unusual materials you’ll come across in watchmaking: aluminium. Not only is this watch’s case made from this accessible material, but so is the movement, and if you’ve ever had the chance to hold one, you will know what I mean about its unbelievable lightness. It’s something that will catch you off guard, but first, you have to find one. It was also produced in the mid-1940s, years before Bulgari would come out with its Aluminium watch! This is one of the most esoteric collectables you’ll find out there, and while there are a lot of great pocket watches in this auction, they are mainly examples of what you would expect. This VC stands out to all for pairing the Holy Trinity brand’s refined design with this lightweight metal. Estimate: CHF 3,500 – 5,500.
Lot 473: Breitling Navitimer AOPA ref. 806
You cannot talk about pilots’ watches without mentioning the Breitling Navitimer, offering pilots all the information they need on their wrists thanks to its brilliant slide rule. And while there are plenty of wonderful modern versions of this watch that can be picked up at retail, there is something about the charm of these faded numerals and muted colours that is impossible to replicate with a watch that has come fresh out of the manufacture. Again, this model is not in spotless condition, and some of the lume on the dial has been reapplied, but getting your hands on this highly sought-after design for what’s likely to be quite a reasonable price seems like a pretty good deal to me (even if it turns out to be a bit of a project watch). Estimate: CHF 2,000 – 4,000
Antiquorum’s 2025 Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces auction is taking place in Geneva, Switzerland, on November 8th-9th at the Ritz Carlton Hôtel de la Paix. Find out more and register to bid here.