After Time 2025: Pietro shares what it is like being in Milan for the leading Italian watch fair
Pietro PillaIt was a great honour for me to participate first-hand in After Time at Milan Watch Week, the Italian fair dedicated to emerging brands. Seeing Italy grow in the world of watchmaking events is something that makes me proud, and what better city than Milan, the capital of fashion and home to some of the greatest vintage collections, to host this event?
It was a more relaxed version than last year’s inaugural edition. And it was planned that way from the outset, with alternating editions focusing on high-end independents one year and emerging brands the next. This allows each edition to shine, without stepping on the other fair’s toes. The Dubai Watch Week, which will be held soon, is also biennial and, with its higher prices, takes place in the same year as After Time.
So, while last year’s successful edition focused on haute horlogerie, this edition turned the spotlight on microbrands and Maisons offering excellent products at affordable prices. At Time+Tide, we believe that these new brands are just as important to the industry as the big names, as they promote design ideas and, being relatively accessible, often represent a gateway into the world of watchmaking.
The two formats, however, are characterised by the same vibe. Like you’d expect from a fair housed in Italy, it’s not just about watches, but they are blended together with fashion, cars and the iconic Aperitivo.
The watches were displayed in a new location just behind the Duomo in typical Italian style, housed in a former vaulted stable of the Archbishop’s Palace. On the other hand, events took place in the Terrazza Martini just like last year, overlooking the Duomo square for the best possible backdrop for a wrist shot. Masterfully scheduled during Aperitivo time, they were the well-needed break after a day of walking around and another way to discuss watches less formally. Great collectors and enthusiasts simply shared their passion, with exceptional watches that discreetly stood out, peeking out from a well-tailored cuff or unexpectedly emerging from pockets and the like.
The tone was set on the opening night by Gaga Laboratorio, which, together with singer Alessandro Restori, hosted a show inspired by an unforgettable era, the perfect embodiment of La Dolce Vita. The second evening saw a change of scenery, with Squale and clothing brand Fortela presenting a limited edition dedicated to the founder of the fashion brand, Alessandro Squarzi, for his 60th birthday in his flagship store. This was probably the moment that best summed up the fair, with watches and clothing featured in equal measure, because those who love handmade, well-crafted items often love both.
And the events weren’t limited to the evenings. During the day, Maserati offered test drives in the city, while Zenith held workshops on watchmaking to teach how to apply luminescent material to the hands of its latest limited edition. Then it was Leica’s turn with a masterclass in watch photography and the presentation of its newest collection, while the learning opportunities continued with the FHH talk, which organised a quiz (won by a team consisting of Tim Vaux, Italian Watch Spotter and me!) But I must say it was a rather uneven challenge, given the firepower present.
There was no better way to end the weekend than to see Ming’s sensational watchmaking. It was the first time they had organised an event in Italy, and it was incredible to finally be able to see and touch several watches that share such a strong stylistic language.
It was a mouthful, but I really hope I’ve given you an idea of what it was like to be there. If you have the chance, I highly recommend going next year, because even though the watches can be seen in other places (including our studios), experiencing them in that setting completely changes the way you’ll see them. After two successful editions, I am curious to see what they have in store for us next year. A big thank you and sincere congratulations to the entire Milano Watch Week team. See you soon, and hope you all have a wonderful weekend!
Pietro and the Time+Tide Team
Watch meme of the week: painful addictions
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Waitlists are bad for your (mental) health.
Wrist shot of the week: Italian angles
This wrist shot is well related to the above fair. Beda’a announced an Italian edition just in time, taking inspiration from the texture of the Palazzo Ducale in Venice. The result is a very sculptural case with a high contrast dial that happens to be very photogenic, well done!
Time+Tide Shop pick of the week: Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Racing Mecaquartz Carbon
The Carbon edition pushes the Chronoking Racing into modern territory. With a darker, textured dial inspired by high-performance materials, this model is limited to only 500 pieces. A perfect fusion of exclusivity, vintage charm, and the thrill of racing, it’s a true collector’s watch.
We have limited stock of the Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Racing Mecaquartz Carbon in the Time+Tide Shop. Price: A$1,120 (leather/rubber), A$1,520 (beads of rice bracelet)
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