Geneva Watch Days 2025 Special: new releases from Bulgari, Berneron, Laurent Ferrier and more

Pietro Pilla

We’re in the middle of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and brands are trying to outdo each other in terms of both new releases and events… Including those not even exhibiting in Geneva! We are spoilt for choice, and it has been incredibly challenging to narrow down our selection, but below you will find the twenty pieces selected for this week. It’s one of those moments when I feel like a kid in a candy shop, with every style, movement and colour imaginable. I know it’s a longer round-up than usual (and this isn’t even all the releases!) but it will be worth it. Enjoy the reading!

Bvlgari x Lee Ufan Octo Finissimo

• Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan joins an elite group of artists offering their unique take on Bvlgari’s most popular model.
• This model was born after the contrasts of untamed stone and mirrors found in his sculptures, elements that are in conflict with each other, but somehow work together perfectly.
• This titanium, hand-filed model, is a limited edition of 150 pieces and features a mirror-effect dial typical of the artist’s style.
• Price: CHF 18,900.

Learn more about the Bulgari x Lee Ufan Octo Finissimo here.

Berneron Quantième Annuel

• Sylvain Berneron follows up the Mirage with something very different for his second collection.
• Hinting more at traditional horology, both variants feature a 950 platinum case with a 904L steel protective layer in critical points.
• The proprietary movement has been developed with legibility in mind, with what’s called a cross architecture, having vertical timekeeping and horizontal calendar indications.
• Price: from CHF 120,000.

Learn more about the Berneron Quantième Annuel here.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal

• Marking its 15^th anniversary, Mr Laurent Ferrier celebrates his very first creation, the Classic Tourbillon, with the Série Atelier VII.
• This new iteration of the iconic model is in platinum with a lively teal enamel dial, changing tone depending on the light condition.
• The movement also got a makeover to keep up with the times, showing now dark ruthenium bridges and rhodium-plated wheels and screws for maximum contrast.
• Price: CHF 195,000.

Learn more about the Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal here.

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

• Genta’s favourite complication makes a return in a squircle gold case adorned with a black onyx dial.
• The new Gérald Genta Minute Repeater looks to adapt the complication into a squircle that looks like it could’ve been designed by Genta himself.
• Powered by the GG-002, a manual movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps, the Genta Minute Repeater will be limited in production to just 10 pieces per year.
• Price: CHF 320,000.

Learn more about the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater here.

Louis Erard x Wire Art Fil d’Or

• Collaborations with creatives from different industries are something that really sets Louis Erard apart, and this 99-piece limited edition continues to do so.
• Trained engineers Sylvie Villa and Mark Miehlbradt have reprogrammed machines originally built for bonding microchips to create delicate gold microsculptures.
• The result on the black laquer dial is a cube motif made of 2,320 threads of 24K gold — three times thinner than a human hair.
• Price: CHF 4,500.

Learn more about the Louis Erard x Wire Art Fil d’Or here.

Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx

• Swiss-based, vintage-inspired disruptor Furlan Marri is back with a fresh Disco Volante, pairing precious gemstones with a gorgeous stone dial in an effort to take the brand to the next level.
• The new Disco Diamonds Onyx features the much-loved 1930s disco volante case design, matched with a deep black onyx dial, adorned with six lab-grown baguette-cut 0.12-carat diamonds.
• Once again, Furlan Marri proves that rare exotica doesn’t have to be so exclusive, offering a familiar aesthetic that collectors love, minus the life-changing price tag.
• Price: CHF 3,500.

Learn more about the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx here.

Roger W. Smith Series 6

• Legendary watchmaker Roger W. Smith adds another model to his collection with a newly developed calibre featuring a peripheral instantaneous date display.
• The case is slightly smaller than the Series 4, which also features a calendar complication, with a diameter of 40 mm and is available in gold or platinum.
• The open case back allows you to admire the beautifully finished movement, which uses the single-wheel version of the Daniels Co-Axial escapement, as you would expect from this maker.
• Price: £320,000.

Learn more about the Roger W. Smith Series 6 here.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon and Richard Lange Jumping Seconds

• A. Lange & Söhne unveils the 1815 Tourbillon in 950 platinum with a jet-black grand feu enamel dial and the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in 750 white gold with a salmon coloured pink gold dial.
• Both models feature Lange’s Zero-Reset, which snaps the seconds hand back to zero so that the minute hand can be precisely aligned to a marker.
• The new models are typical of Lange, featuring a three‑quarter plate in untreated German silver, hand‑engraved balance cock, blued screws and screwed gold chatons, all visible through the sapphire caseback.
• Price: €250,000 and €110,000.

Learn more about the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon and Richard Lange Jumping Seconds here.

MB&F LM101 EVO

• MB&F unveils its fourth-ever EVO model for Geneva Watch Days 2025 – this time, a sportier take on the “quintessential MB&F”, the LM101.
• It brings additional shock protection, brighter colours and a tweaked case design to the table.
• A screw-down crown elevates its water resistance to 80 metres.
• Price: CHF 62,000.

Learn more about the MB&F LM101 EVO here.

L.Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps

• First founded in 1785, L. Leroy comes back to life for its 240^th anniversary, focusing on limited-series, high-complication watches.
• The new Bal du Temps of the Osmior collection measures 43mm in diameter with a case crafted from 18k 5N red gold, platinum, or grade 5 titanium.
• The deeply radially brushed chapter ring leaves space for an unobstructed view of the hand-wound calibre L601SQ, driving a minute repeater on two circular gongs.
• Price: on request.

Learn more about the L. Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps here.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon

• H. Moser & Cie brings back its Smoked Salmon hue for a second appearance, now housed in the familiar Endeavour case with the brand’s streamlined calendar display.
• The logo‑free dial combines a vertical griffé texture with Moser’s fumé gradient, darkening toward the edge and transitioning from soft copper to warm brown.
• Inside is the hand‑wound HMC 800 manufacture calibre, delivering a minimum seven‑day power reserve from twin barrels, running at 2.5 Hz, and featuring hacking seconds for precise setting.
• Price: US$64,000.

Learn more about the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon here.

Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.

• Swiss Independent Czapek releases a tribute to prominent Czech intellectual, Karel Čapek and his play, R.U.R. – a critique of the dehumanising potential of science and technology.
• The open worked split-second monopusher chronograph features a robot head at 12 o’clock, with eyes of different colours that indicate different states of the chronograph function.
• Despite the complexity of the automatic calibre SXH6, the 42.5mm stainless steel has a water resistance of 120 meters.
• Price: CHF 58,000.

Learn more about the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. here.

Dennison ALD Dual Time

• Dennison drops a two-for-one, dropping two movements into a single ALD case to create a very retro travel watch.
• The new range consists of contrasting, split dual stone dials, each side featuring its own movement, crown and handset.
• Available in polished stainless steel or gold PVD-coated finishes, the case remains a typical Dennison, with the 37mm soft square ALD case.
• Price: US$890.

Learn more about the Dennison ALD Dual Time here.

Zenith Defy Chronograph USM

• Zenith joins forces with Swiss furniture maker USM on a quartet of colourful Defy models – marking the first appearance of an El Primero chronograph movement in a Defy Revival format.
• Not only are the colours inspired by those of the modular furniture maker, but they are also shipped in an original USM cabinet.
• This is a limited edition of 60 pieces for each of the four colours: all sold on a very funky ladder bracelet.
• Price: £10,400.

Learn more about the Zenith Defy Chronograph USM here.

Micromilspec Pilot Worldtimer

• Norwegian microbrand Micromilspec launches its first Worldtimer in two colourways, which goes back to its roots as one of the very first commissions was a pilot’s watch for the Royal Norwegian Air Force.
• This 75-piece limited edition features a Destro case for ultimate comfort, measuring 43mm in diameter.
• The grade 5 titanium case is paired with an integrated rubber strap available in a black or white colourway.
• Price: from US$3,850.

Learn more about the Micromilspec Pilot Worldtimer here.

TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

• TAG Heuer introduces the Carrera Astronomer in three different variations, sporting a new take on the moonphase complication.
• It pays homage to a formative movement in Heuer history: back to 1962, a Heuer was the first Swiss-made watch to make it into space on the wrist of astronaut John Glenn.
• This watch comes in standard production as well as two limited editions.
• Price: CHF 4,350. 

Learn more about the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer here.

ArtyA Luminity Micro-Rotor AMR-01

• ArtyA houses the new in-house Micro Rotor AMR-01 Calibre in a 35mm sapphire or titanium case, a first for the Geneva-based brand.
• Several variants are available, featuring either a full sapphire dial or partially covered by a central subdial in mother-of-pearl or amazonite.
• This is a limited edition of 99 pieces, and it will be interesting to see how this new size will play out in the future.
• Price: from CHF 14,900.

Learn more about the ArtyA Luminity Micro-Rotor AMR-01 here.

Doxa SUB 750T

• The SUB 750T comes back in the collection, again bridging the gap between the 600 to the ultra-deep 1500.
• The 45mm diameter stays the same, but compared to the model from 20 years ago, now the watch measures 11.95mm in thickness (instead of 14mm).
• While the classical colourway remains the orange, there are several others available, as you’d expect from Doxa’s modern catalogue.
• Price: from US$2,750.

Learn more about the Doxa SUB 750T here.

Minase 7 Windows 20th Anniversary

• Japanese watchmaker Minase celebrates its 20^th anniversary and releases a special Yukihira with a Black Gradation Dial.
• The unique dial is electroformed revealing a Yukihira pattern which blends tones of black and purple under dancing under the different lights.
• This is a 77-piece limited edition, and it will come in a limited edition leather watch box, with a special silver bracelet gift.
• Price: from US$5,500.

Learn more about the Minase 7 Windows 20th Anniversary here.

Vario 1945 D12 Bronze Edition

• Singapore-based Vario builds a new model upon their Dirty Dozen interpretation, celebrating the 80th anniversary of the end of World War II.
• Featuring a bronze case and matching bronze hands, each element will patina over time at a different rate.
• The watch is available on a canvas strap made of 68% recycled cotton, but a bund strap option is also available on the website.
• Price: US$428.

Learn more about the Vario 1945 D12 Bronze Edition here.