Are these new Seiko Presage Classic Series watches the best dressy daily wearers for US$1,000 or less?
Zach BlassI know I say “robust elegance” as much as George Bamford said “TAG Heuer” on About Efiing Time, so get your favourite spirit and shot glass ready. But we recently got a closer look at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series, and it may just be the epitome of robust elegance. In fact, it is affordable, robust elegance. Could the new Seiko Presage Classic Series SBP521, SPB523, and SPB524 watches be the best dressy daily-wearers for US$1,000 or less? Let’s dive in.
The three new references are all packaged in 36mm cases, 12.5mm thick and 41.4mm lug-to-lug, but the SPB521 and SPB523 have a case and bracelet in stainless steel, while the SPB524 takes things up a notch with a gold-tone stainless steel case and bracelet. The trio’s diameter and lug-to-lug dimensions offer vintage-like, timeless proportions, and its 12.5mm thickness keeps things pleasantly slender. These watches will definitely suit a wide spectrum of wrists, and, with all three being 100 metres water-resistant, they are also versatile in how, when, and where you can comfortably wear them.
The dials all have the throughline of a radiant sunburst texture that is less about making the dial shiny than it is about giving the dial texture. It is more of a subtly three-dimensional pattern, akin to Grand Seiko’s dials that are evocative of snow-covered mountains. The steel SBP521 and gold-tone SPB523 have, perhaps, safer dial hues with subtly icy blue and ivory dials, respectively. The SPB523 dial, however, stands out a bit more.
For lack of better phrasing, I would describe the SPB523’s dial as a gradient beige or peach. At its centre, it is near-white, but it graduates towards tones of pink, orange, and beige more intensely as you reach the outer perimeter. But returning to the commonalities of the dials, they all have case-matching alpha-style hands and a full set of applied hour indices. Without a date complication, the dial is clean, crisp, and legible – a purist’s dream.
The Seiko Presage Classic Series models SBP521, SPB523, and SPB524 are all affixed to a case-matching seven-link bracelet and are driven by the in-house automatic 6R51 calibre with three days of power reserve. The movement can be seen ticking away beneath an exhibition caseback. While some would say the exhibition caseback is unnecessary due to its entry-industrial level of finish, I suspect budding collectors who will jump at this collection’s more affordable price will appreciate being able to see the movement at work.
I know some will look at these three Seiko Presage Classic Series watches and decry that they are all a Calatrava meets a Datejust. However, the Seiko signatures, such as a richly textured and coloured dial, the affordable yet in-house 3-day automatic movement and a subtly different bracelet that is not 1:1 with a Jubilee (due to more intermediary links) gives these pieces enough of a Seiko stamp to dismiss the thought, in my opinion.
Also, the value-proposition-meets-vertical-integration is just too good to get bogged down in such parallels. Any of the three would make a very solid graduation or birthday watch for someone near and dear to you (or even a gift for yourself), but my pick would have to be the gold-tone, which is fortunately only US$50 more than the two stainless steel models.
Seiko Presage Classic Series SBP521, SPB523 and SPB524 pricing and availability
The Seiko Presage Classic Series models SBP521, SPB523, and SPB524 are now available for purchase. Price: US$950 (SPB521, SPB523), US$1,000 (SPB524)
| Brand | Seiko |
| Model | Presage Classic Series |
| Reference | SPB521 SPB523 SPB524 |
| Case Dimensions | 36mm (D) x 12.5mm (T) x 41.4mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel (SPB521, SPB523) Gold-toned stainless steel (SPB524) |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Icy blue (SPB521) Gradient beige (SPB523) Ivory (SPB524) |
| Strap | Case-matching seven-link bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | 6R51, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$950 (SPB521, SPB523) US$1,000 (SPB524) |