Exploring core members of the Laurent Ferrier Classic collection for its 15th anniversary
Buffy AcaciaThe life and journey of Laurent Ferrier could be a novel for all of its adventures, and it’s even more incredible that his latest achievements are also hitting substantial milestones. His eponymous brand, founded with the help of lifelong friend François Sérvanin, launched its first watch in 2010 — the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral. 15 years on, the timeless vision of the Classic collection remains as relevant as ever. We examined three core members of Laurent Ferrier’s catalogue to see exactly why they’re instant classics.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue
All Classic Origin watches are themselves tributes to that first Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral in a way, honing in on the visual traits which were set up by that release, and exploring them thoroughly. The case is all about flow, as the uninterrupted sweep of its sides travels from the lug tips and around. Even the step of the bezel is fairly subtle, thanks to a mirror polish which almost defies the case being pinned down into something so simple as a shape. That effect, along with its environmental reflections, helps to reduce its visual bulk while the 40mm diameter allows plenty of room for the dial to breathe. Comfort is also assured with a total thickness of 11.1mm, and the lightweight nature of the grade 5 titanium from which it’s constructed.
The Classic Origin Blue’s dial is where things delve into the contemporary. The aspect which is instantly captivating is the blue fumé that ranges from a deep navy around the perimeter to more of a soft cornflower in the centre. The matte texture gives it a parchment feel, and then the dial’s layout introduces a slight level of sportiness. Applied indices at 12, 3 and 9 pop in contrast to the other crisp, printed markers, which incorporate a white crosshair. The stepped small seconds sub-dial has separate levels for its base and mini seconds track, playing with depth in a satisfying way. Finally, the elongated spade hands – a signature of Laurent Ferrier’s – feel sophisticated and distinct.
The calibre LF116.01 has an incredibly distinct look. Forget the elaborately-decorated three-quarter plates of Glashütte and bask in the industrial precision of its large, matte plates. It’s modern, but it’s not boring. This approach draws most of the attention to the balance wheel which beats at 3Hz, surrounding it with hand-polished bevels, and offers just a peek of the large mainspring barrel that provides 80 hours of power reserve. It’s a manually wound calibre, and the large onion crown is a joy to top up. The nubuck leather strap with Alcantara lining in a matching blue tone is comfortable and casual, without sacrificing any of the watch’s elegance – with the Alcantara providing a subtle through-line to the race cars that Monsieur Ferrier used to drive, too.
| Brand | Laurent Ferrier |
| Model | Classic Origin Blue |
| Reference | LCF036.T1.CG |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 11.1mm (T) x 47.6mm (LTL) |
| Case material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Blue fumé |
| Bracelet and strap | Blue Nubuck leather with Alcantara lining |
| Movement | Calibre LF116.01, in-house, manual-wind |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 33,000 (~US$37,000) |
Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Silver
The Classic Micro-Rotor Silver manages to be simultaneously more and less versatile than the Origin Blue for several reasons. Its case carries the exact same dimensions and specifications, but it’s made from 18k 5N red gold rather than titanium. Instantly, that elevates it into more of a jewellery realm, without even considering the price increase – and yet, its style is more traditional, making it less of a statement piece than the Origin Blue. The use of an automatic movement technically makes it more wearable, too.
The gold and silver combination isn’t as pronounced as many two-tone watches because of the textures which have been applied to the silver. Vertical brushing on the majority of the dial enforces structure, and then the sunburst pattern of the small seconds sub-dial acts as a flash of intrigue. Drop-shaped hour markers bring a sharpness that is echoed in the hand design, and small gold dots serve as minute markers. All of those gold markers are also made from 5N red gold, perfectly matching the tone of the case.
If you are partial to pretty movements, then the Classic Micro-Rotor has you covered. A far cry from the stoicism of the LF116.01, the calibre FBN229.01 has plates decorated with côtes de Genève and perlage visible on the base plate, and the hand-polishing going up a further notch or two. There’s also more room opened up for you to see the automatic micro-rotor in action, itself decorated beautifully. There are many neat additions such as shock protection for the micro-rotor, and the legendary double direct impulse silicon escapement, which reduces friction, improves efficiency, and improves timekeeping overall. Finally, the alligator strap with Alcantara lining retains the comfort with a dressier look.
| Brand | Laurent Ferrier |
| Model | Classic Micro-Rotor Silver |
| Reference | LCF004.R5.GR1 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 11.1mm (T) x 47.6mm (LTL) |
| Case material | 18k red gold 5N |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Brushed silver |
| Bracelet and strap | Brown alligator leather with Alcantara lining |
| Movement | Calibre FBN229.01, in-house, automatic micro-rotor, natural escapement |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 70,000 (~US$78,000) |
Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen
Although the Laurent Ferrier Classic collection is more focused on traditional watchmaking with contemporary flair, its design influence has still made its way to Ferrier’s own motorsports passions. Racing is part of the brand’s DNA, and the Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen embraces more of a 1970s throwback aesthetic. The case, in this reference made of an 18k white gold alloy with 21% palladium, is a complete change from the others. It’s only slightly larger at 41mm in diameter, but the proportions are chunkier, and there’s more separation between the lugs, case body, and the bezel even with its all-polished finish.
Given the nature of the case, it makes sense that the rest of the watch leans into a more laid-back vibe too. The olive green dial is dark and a little desaturated, once more with vertical brushing that enhances its use of space. Rather than something shiny and distracting, the small seconds sub-dial just has a soft graining for its textural contrast. The calibre FBN229.01 has been used once again here, still providing 72 hours of power reserve at a 3Hz beat rate thanks to the automatic winding of the gold micro-rotor. The slightly worn brown calf leather strap feels at home on this watch, really evoking the atmosphere of a vintage car.
| Brand | Laurent Ferrier |
| Model | Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen |
| Reference | LCF013.AC.VG1 |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 11.1mm (T) x 48.2mm (LTL) |
| Case material | 18k white gold 210 pd |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Brushed green |
| Bracelet and strap | Brown calf leather with Alcantara lining |
| Movement | Calibre FBN229.01, in-house, automatic micro-rotor, natural escapement |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 70,000 (~US$78,000) |