Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen”
Jamie WeissGlashütte Original these days is best known for its dressy moonphase and calendar watches, but the German watchmaker actually has plenty of history and credibility in the dive watch space, albeit a slightly less straightforward one than other brands. During the Cold War, when Glashütte Original was GUB (VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe) – the East German state-owned enterprise formed by the collectivisation of the seven major Glashütte watchmaking firms – it made dive watches both for the civilian market and the East German military, with the first dive watch to come out of Glashütte, the GUB Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, making its debut in 1969.
50 years after the TS 200’s launch and 30 years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Glashütte Original would revive it with the Spezialist SeaQ collection, which stands out as arguably the most refined range of dive watches currently produced in Glashütte. The SeaQ Chronograph was introduced in 2022, adding an impressive complication to the collection, which brings us to today’s focus, the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen”, which is both aesthetically and technically innovative in perhaps unexpected ways.
The case
If I said “East German dive watch”, you’d think beefy, stern and serious… And that’s exactly what the SeaQ Chronograph is. At 43.2mm in diameter and 16.95mm thick, it cuts an imposing presence on the wrist – but that’s perhaps unsurprising for a 300-meter water-resistant dive watch housing multiple high horology complications. On that, its chrono pushers aren’t screw-down, which is what you’d normally expect from a diving chronograph this water resistant. That’s quite impressive. Indeed, this SeaQ is an officially certified diver’s watch, complying with both the ISO 6425 and DIN 8306 standards.
As for the case itself, I’d describe it as utilitarian but handsome. It’s got a slabby form with short, blocky lugs, evocative of the TS 200, except with a thin polished bevel sweeping down its edges to contrast with its brushed top and side surfaces. The slightly oversized crown is deeply knurled to facilitate a tight screw down, while the similarly grippy bezel features a sloped black ceramic insert. Its crystal is exceptionally domed, adding to the vintage-inspired look.
The dial
This SeaQ’s dial is the other surprisingly innovative element of this watch. At first glance, you could dismiss it as a simple panda dial, but it actually has a fine matte galvanised silver finish inspired by the optical effect that cinema screens used to use with a thin layer of silver paint: the matte dial texture reduces light dispersion and increases contrast and therefore legibility – legibility being a paramount consideration for a tool watch meant to be used in the dark depths of our ocean.
To that end, the “Silver Screen” benefits from an oversized handset covered in plenty of Super-LumiNova, with square lume-filled plots plus two lume-filled numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock styled after the TS 200’s blocky painted numerals. Two subdials stand akimbo of the central pinion, with black outer rings framing azurage inner portions. Glashütte Original’s signature complication, the Panorama Date, can be found at 6 o’clock, with a white-on-black display keeping those panda vibes consistent.
The straps
The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” is available in three different strap options: a three-link steel bracelet, a black Tropic-style rubber strap, or a unique, high-vis orange two-piece fabric strap that pairs surprisingly well with the monochromatic dial. Both the rubber and fabric straps can be optioned with either a pin buckle or a folding clasp.
The movement
Under the hood beats the in-house calibre 37-23, an automatic flyback chronograph movement with a 70-hour power reserve, 4Hz beat rate and a silicon balance spring. This is a prettier and more complex movement than you’d typically see in a tool watch, sporting typical Glashütte finishing such as a striped three-quarter plate; bevelled and polished edges, blued screws and a 21k gold rotor. There’s really not much more to say – it’s got great specs, it’s in-house, and it looks pretty good too.
The verdict
While I remain personally not entirely convinced of the total utility of diving chronographs, it’s hard not to be impressed by this Glashütte Original. It’s a 300-meter water-resistant high-end diver that also boasts an in-house flyback chronograph movement with a Panorama Date – there’s a lot going on! The connection to filmmaking is also slightly off-beat, but I’m a fan of it: this is definitely the sort of watch a muscly, Teutonic action movie star could wear to defeat baddies at lunch and still have something dapper enough to wear for dinner (although perhaps not on the orange strap!)
Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” pricing and availability
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The SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” is available now from Glashütte Original authorised dealers. Price: A$22,550 (fabric or rubber with pin buckle), A$23,000 (fabric or rubber with folding clasp), A$24,350 (bracelet)
| Brand | Glashütte Original |
| Model | SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” |
| Reference Number | 1-37-23-03-80 |
| Case Dimensions | 43.2mm (D) x 16.95mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel, ceramic bezel insert |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Galvanised silver |
| Lug Width | 21mm |
| Strap | Two-piece orange fabric strap, pin buckle or folding clasp Tropic-style black rubber strap, pin buckle or folding clasp Three-link steel bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 37-23, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, running seconds, flyback chronograph, Panorama Date, unidirectional diving bezel |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | A$22,550 (fabric or rubber with pin buckle) A$23,000 (fabric or rubber with folding clasp) A$24,350 (bracelet) |