The Tissot Ballade now comes in 39mm with a COSC-certified movement
Zach BlassA watch like this new Tissot Ballade can be conflicting. The Ballade collection, in recent years, has pulled largely from an aesthetic made famous by another watch brand. It is irrefutable; there is no way around it. To ignore this fact, as a watch expert, journalist, or whatever you, the reader, may think of me as, would be compromising. With this in mind, getting hands-on with this new 39mm variant is an interesting exercise for me. Some could immediately dismiss it, while others might immediately love it due to its Rolex Datejust-like aesthetic. But is it just a homage? Or, does the sum of its parts, despite coming together familiarly, offer something distinct and worthwhile? Let’s take a closer look.
The case
The Ballade, a line first launched in 1994, has always had a visual tie-in to more elegant, sporty yet scientific watches of the 1960s. But, whereas previous models had various cues, the new Ballade COSC borrows clear signatures. What will first catch the eye is the polished, fluted bezel. On the wrist, it has great proportions with a fan-favourite 39mm diameter and a slender 10.98mm thickness measurement. With such dimensions, matched with a solid 100-metre depth rating, it is undoubtedly suited for daily wear. It is also worth calling out that the design it would be most compared to is available in 36mm and 41mm. Tissot has wisely struck a balance, positioning it at 39mm (alongside a 30mm alternative).
The dial
A sunburst-finished dial is a common occurrence in many watch brands’ catalogues, but I cannot immediately recall a design that cohesively extended the fluting of the bezel onto the surface of the dial. Therefore, this is an element of visual distinction, to a degree. You have applied Roman numerals serving as the hour indices, including the 3 o’clock position, where a shortened ‘III’ is nestled next to a notably un-magnified date complication. For legibility in darkness, Super-LumiNova can be found within the central hours and minutes hands, along with the corresponding hashes next to each hour index.
The bracelet
The five-link bracelet is, of course, very Jubilee-esque. You have three narrow mirror-polished link pieces flanked by broader brushed link pieces. The clasp, however, is not a standard clamshell folding clasp, and instead opts for a butterfly style that some find better keeps the watch centre on the wrist. The bracelet also notably includes quick-release tabs, which means it can be easily removed and outfitted instead with a strap of your choice with ease. Considering its lug width is 20mm, there are ample straps, factory or aftermarket, that could easily be paired with this high-strap-monster-potential Tissot.
The movement
Exhibited inside is a COSC-certified Powermatic 80 movement. The automatic calibre has 80 hours of power reserve, 10 more hours than the 3235 movement inside the current generation of Datejust. Frankly, the movement finishing, while fine, does not really need to be exhibited. However, as a more approachable piece of entry-luxury, budding collectors will surely enjoy seeing their watch alive through the caseback window showcasing the heartbeat and engine of their timepiece.
The verdict
With all of the above considered, the Tissot Ballade’s ability to shake the possible symptoms due to its visual parallels to watches like the Datejust is entirely subjective and equally the manner in which it could put off or entice a buyer to bring one into their collection. Objectively, the fact is that this is a strong value proposition in terms of spec, delivering comfortable and favoured proportions, a weekend-proof COSC-certified calibre, and a desired daily-wearer depth rating of 100 metres, all for just US$1,100. It may not be the most original design, but the spec it offers for the price is not something I would necessarily call familiar. In fact, I would argue the opposite: it makes it stand out well in its price segment.
Tissot Ballade 39mm COSC pricing and availability
The Tissot Ballade 39mm COSC is available now for purchase. Price: US$1,100 (39mm, full stainless steel, as tested)
| Brand | Tissot |
| Model | Ballade 39mm COSC |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 10.98mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Silver |
| Strap | Interchangeable five-link steel bracelet, butterfly folding clasp |
| Movement | Powermatic 80, automatic, COSC-certified |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$1,100 (39mm, full stainless steel) |