The revived Louis Vuitton Monterey is the next high fashion timepiece
Russell SheldrakeThe Louis Vuitton Monterey has returned, and it’s more luxurious than ever! Many of you may recognise this watch as the idiosyncratic pebble-shaped piece that Louis Vuitton produced as its first-ever watch back in 1988 in two separate versions, the LV I and LV II. Today, the luxury house has decided to bring it back, blending aspects of both original models.
Actually, we saw vintage examples of the Monterey worn by models in a Louis Vuitton fashion show earlier this year, which suggested to the watch community that this re-release was on the way. And its design is unmistakable: the brainchild of Italian architect and designer Gae Aulenti, most famous for transforming a train station into the Musée d’Orsay, it’s a striking watch that we’re very glad to see make a comeback.
The case
The case is perhaps the most standout element here, and has been ever since the design was invented. The smooth, round, lugless design has always given this watch a unique look and just like in the LV I, this case is made from 18k yellow gold; however, it has been sized down slightly to 39mm and sits 12.2mm thick without the sapphire crystal. The knurled crown is now less prominent but still sits proudly at 12, giving this the antiquated feel of a pocket watch on the wrist.
The dial
Next, we have to talk about this dial. An elevated version of what we saw in the LV II, this is a white grande feu enamel dial that does away with all the additional functions we found in previous models, and allows the beauty of the craftsmanship to shine through. A blue inner railroad track and a red outer one continue the colour scheme we saw in the LV I, and in between the two are the large Arabic numerals. Those railroad colours are also carried over to the thin handset, with red minute and hour skeletonised syringe hands, and a blue seconds hand with a large circular counterweight.
Everything on this dial has been kept thin; almost delicate in its light weight. This helps the dial feel more elegant and refined. Even the Louis Vuitton Paris logo hugs the inner curve of the blue track, tucking itself out of the way, not trying to shout at you from the dial. This really does feel like a distillation of Gae’s original designs into a modernised yet still recognisable format.
The movement
Inside this watch is the LFT MA01.02 automatic movement produced by La Fabrique du Temps: it appears to be a continuation of the calibre we saw inside the Tambour Convergence released earlier this year. This is a significant departure from form: the original Montereys were both quartz-powered, so the shift to a mechanical movement is notable (and emblematic of modern consumer expectations at this price point). The calibre can deliver 45 hours of power reserve whilst maintaining a 4 Hz beat rate.
The strap
The strap is attached to the case using the same quick-release pass-through system that the originals pioneered, hidden perfectly under the polished caseback. This leaves the silhouette of the case extremely clean with its entirely polished surface flowing effortlessly around the white dial. Tucked underneath the strap is a small engraving, marking this out as a limited edition, as one of just 188. This number echoes the year of Monterey’s conception, back in 1988.
The verdict
While we were teased this watch earlier in the year on the catwalk, it is great to see it back in the catalogue. It would have been easy for Jean Arnault and his team to take one of the original designs and copy it like-for-like. However, as we have seen with the reimaging of the Tambour series, Louis Vuitton’s modern watch department is not one for cutting corners. And that attitude shines through again here: excellent overall dimensions with that lugless case sitting on the wrist slightly smaller than the 39mm measurement might suggest, and what I consider a totally upgraded dial to the originals, making this watch worthy of its place in the extremely strong modern LV watch lineup.
Louis Vuitton Monterey pricing and availability
The Louis Vuitton Monterey is limited to 188 pieces. Price: US$53,000
| Brand | Louis Vuitton |
| Model | Monterey |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 12.2mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k yellow gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | White, grand feu enamel |
| Bracelet | Black calf leather |
| Movement | LFT MA01.02, in-house, automatic |
| Power reserve | 45 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Limited to 188 pieces |
| Price | US$53,000 |