The watches making the most of mesh bracelets, a century-old art

Borna Bošnjak

Think of the most recognisable watch bracelet styles: your mind undoubtedly races to the Oyster, or maybe an H-link, or the Forstner flatlink? While all are historically significant, they’re usually associated with brands or a particular model, though the same can’t be said about mesh bracelets. Present in watches since their infancy and adapted from jewellery, mesh bracelets (also called Milanese bracelets) have always been around, favoured for their tendency to fluidly hug wrists – and I think they’re particularly relevant these days, with the style seeing something of a resurgence. But which watches incorporate the style best? The buying guide below is a good place to start finding that out.

Baltic Prismic

The French brand’s novel take on a cocktail watch is made all the better by the inclusion of a flat-brushed mesh bracelet with fitted, curved ends. Not only does that help it visually mould to the bi-metal case, it also makes the wearing experience more jewellery-like, which is exactly what the Prismic is hoping to achieve. Like the best examples out there, the bracelet is slinky – though not fully articulated, meaning you get a surprisingly solid feel on the wrist. Price: A$2,070, from the T+T Shop

Serica 5303 Diving Chronometer

From one French brand to the next, but in a completely different execution of the Milanese bracelet style. Whereas Baltic employed its soft, flowing texture, Serica’s 5303 combines it with articulated, full-link end-links (chunky to say, but well-executed!) and a more obvious grain texture. The result is a modern take on shark mesh, which allows for great comfort as your wrist shrinks and expands. What’s especially interesting is that this particular piece of mesh tapers towards the clasp, something rarely seen at any price point, doing wonders for balancing the design. Price: A$2,750, from the T+T Shop

Furlan Marri Disco Volante

It’s no secret that I liked the original Furlan Marri Disco Volante – you only need to look at some of my past buying guides where I try to recommend it in as many possible categories as was feasible. Thankfully, this being about mesh bracelets gives me yet another excuse to shoehorn it in, but once again, not without due credit. Where the style shines in particular is with the brand’s new Diamonds Onyx edition. There’s something about the serenity of that black dial paired with the bodacious baguettes that is expressed even better on a mesh bracelet, especially with its basketweave pattern. Price: CHF 3,500 (~A$6,700), from the T+T Shop

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

The ageing design of Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M got a new lease on life with the introduction of the mesh bracelet previously reserved for the James Bond No Time to Die limited edition. This being one of the watch’s new signature features, Omega didn’t just slap a regular ol’ piece of chainmail on, but rather integrated a lovely deployant clasp and a surprising amount of articulation. You can’t really go wrong with any of the colourways (though don’t be surprised by the Bronze Gold model’s pricing), but in the arbitrary game where I had to choose, I’d lean towards the monochromatic brushed grey dial variant. Price: starting from A$11,550

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface

Deservedly being touted as one of the watches of this year’s Watches & Wonders, JLC’s stunning rendition of a Reverso in full pink gold with a matching mesh bracelet left me pretty stumped when seeing it in person for the first time. I knew I’d like it even before I saw it, but didn’t think I’d have to resort to boy math to figure out in which universe A$66k was a figure I’d be able to get to. Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t quite get there, ending up about A$66k short – though that shouldn’t detract from how stunning this watch really is. Like I mentioned in my intro, the watch is completely transformed on this bracelet, and goes from the usual “oh cool, a Reverso” to “god damn, that Reverso”. Price: A$66,500

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Though not afforded the same fanfare as some of the brand’s sporty models, the latest Golden Ellipse from the brand nobody actually owns is very much deserving of praise. The case and dial are nice enough – about what you’d expect from an ultra-dressy two-hander, but the Wellendorf bracelet stands on its own as a true tribute to some of the greatest Milanese bracelet makers of the 1970s. Each link is so obviously well-made, and saying that it “articulates well” may just be the understatement of the century, as it almost breathes with each movement of your wrist. Price: A$105,500

T+T Timeless Pick: Omega Seamaster Ploprof

Going from the Wellendorf-braceleted Ellipse to the chunky mesh of the Omega Seamaster Ploprof is the equivalent of comparing a pair of towering Jimmy Choos to some steel-toe Blundstones. Both have clearly been made to fit a purpose, but those purposes couldn’t be more different. And yet, when I think of a mesh bracelet on a watch, my mind races to the big, ponderous Ploprof. I adore this watch and its quirky design, whether it be the comically large proportions or the actually useful features such as the bezel-locking system, and despite its apparent chunkiness, the more modern examples showcase a steel bracelet that has been attentively finished, mixing brushing and polishing. Sadly, Omega currently doesn’t offer its Ploprof ‘Summer Blue’ with a mesh bracelet option, so the secondary market will be your best bet, though I do hope they bring it back – maybe in titanium this time to offset some of the heft?