The tough Zenith Defy Extreme Diver gets a purposeful ‘Shadow’ makeover
Jamie WeissZenith isn’t a brand you immediately associate with dive watches. Chronographs? Most definitely. Pilot’s watches? They literally have the trademark on the term. But the Le Locle firm is more than capable of making a capable dive watch, something they reminded us of last year when they introduced the Defy Extreme Diver. Cut from a similar cloth to the outlandish Defy Xtreme models produced by the brand in the 2000s under flamboyant CEO Thierry Nataf (but thankfully featuring a much more tasteful design), the Defy Extreme Diver combines ‘superdiver’ specs with an El Primero movement and an on-trend integrated bracelet design in a very compelling luxury dive watch package.
This latest variant of the Defy Extreme Diver, however, dials the tool watch vibes up to 11, cloaking this dive watch in the same dark, microblasted titanium used in the brand’s recent limited-edition ‘Shadow’ models, contrasted with bold yellow highlights to emphasise its aquatic intentions.
The case
Every model in Zenith’s Defy Xtreme range back in the day shared a 46.5mm case diameter – which is massive now, but was particularly so back then. This new Defy Extreme Diver, however, isn’t quite as imposing. At 42.5mm in diameter and 15.5mm thick, it won’t be accused of being a small watch, but considering its robust specs and tool watch intentions, it’s an entirely acceptable size.
The Defy Extreme Diver was initially launched in brushed titanium, but this model’s microblasted titanium is even more handsome. I suspect this finish has been chosen largely for aesthetic reasons, but I think it suits this watch’s tough character. As for the case itself, it’s appropriately beefy and angular, with chunky hex-head-affixed crown guards bolted on alongside a large star-motif crown. This case provides water resistance to 600 metres, with an automatic helium release valve protruding from its side at 9 o’clock signalling such capability. The Defy Extreme Diver also meets the strict ISO 6425 requirements for deep dive watches.
What’s particularly cool is how it integrates subtle design cues from the original Defy of 1969, namely with its subtle dodecagonal bezel plinth. Speaking of the bezel, it also deserves a shout-out. A relatively thin design, it’s crafted from black ceramic and features very satisfying knurling, making it easy to grip even with very pruney fingers. Again, I think the use of ceramic here is primarily an aesthetic one: a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel can protect a watch’s crystal against scratches or chips, but the titanium bezel plinth, which frames the crystal, sits higher than the ceramic bezel – meaning it’s titanium that’ll take a blow, not the ceramic.
This isn’t a dealbreaker for me, though, as I think it’s an intriguing-looking design, and one that’s actually quite faithful to Zenith’s first-ever dive watch, the Defy Diver A3648 ‘Plongeur’ from 1969, which Zenith also revived last year with the Defy Revival A3648. That watch has also received a ‘Shadow’ makeover in 2025 alongside this Defy Extreme Diver in microblasted titanium with yellow highlights… But I think the Defy Extreme Diver Shadow, as I’m dubbing it, is the superior watch.
The dial
This Defy Extreme Diver Shadow is an extremely legible watch, thanks to its large indices and spade-shaped semi-skeletonised hands, all of which have large expanses of Super-LumiNova. The bright yellow minute track is also hard to miss – it accounts for only a relatively small amount of dial real estate in the grand scheme of things, but wow… It just pops. Yellow might not be the most sartorially versatile colour, but it really works well here, contrasting with the matte black dial as well as the black bezel and dark microblasted titanium of its case.
The dial texture is also subtly aquatic, too. The four-pointed star motif tesselated like this reminds me of the tiles on the bottom of a pool… Maybe that’s just my brain working in mysterious ways. I also appreciate the dial colour-matched date window at 3. There’s a touch of whimsy to be found in the five-pointed star counter-balance on the seconds hand, too. By the way, note how they’ve rounded up 600 metres to 1969 feet, commemorating the release date of the Defy Diver A3648. Nice.
The straps
Each Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow comes with three different strap options: an integrated, tapered microblasted titanium bracelet with a symmetrical folding clasp; a Cordura-effect rubber strap with an asymmetrical folding clasp; and a black and yellow single-piece fabric strap secured with a pin buckle.
You might be asking how Zenith can offer a single-piece fabric strap when the Defy Extreme Diver is an integrated bracelet watch. Well, they’ve come up with a rather novel solution: two fixed-bar end-links that can attach and detach via the watch’s quick-change system, which allows a single-piece strap to be fed through. The black and yellow weave is very eye-catching and accentuates the Defy Extreme Diver Shadow’s sporty character.
The integrated microblasted titanium bracelet feels very premium, with a pleasing taper towards the buckle. However, for the week I had the watch, I found myself wearing it most frequently on the rubber strap: the rubber compound Zenith has used is very pliable and comfy. The asymmetrical folding clasp does take some getting used to – one half is released via push-buttons on the clasp, while the other half is a friction-fit. However, once you’ve got the hang of it, it becomes second nature.
The movement
Powering the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is the El Primero 3620 SC, a three-handed take on the iconic movement that beats at 5 Hz yet maintains an impressive 60-hour power reserve. It’s not often that you see high-beat calibres cased within dive watches, so this El Primero is a big selling point. It’s also unusual for a watch with such a significant depth rating to have an exhibition caseback, so kudos to Zenith.
If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, then you’re no doubt familiar with the El Primero movement in all its guises… Watching that smoothly sweeping central seconds hand is always such a joy. A paramagnetic escapement with key components crafted from silicon helps it achieve ISO standards 764 and 1413 for anti-magnetism and shock resistance.
The verdict
After wearing the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow for a week, I must say I became rather enamoured with it (and slightly regretful that we didn’t base our third Zenith ‘Surfer’ collaboration on this model – although the White Surfer is pretty sick…) It truly feels like the kind of watch a saturation diver from the 22nd century might wear. The interplay between the stealthy titanium and black dial with the high-vis yellow highlights feels purposeful yet not austere; it’s mission-ready.
Its closest competition would be something like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore – yet I think this Zenith is, counter-intuitively, a more refined watch than an AP ROO. Yes, it’s big, tough and audacious, but it’s also quite considered in its design. The three different strap options are all excellent, too, all offering their own ergonomic and aesthetic benefits.
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow pricing and availability
The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow is available now from Zenith boutiques and retailers. Price: US$12,800, A$20,100
| Brand | Zenith |
| Model | Defy Extreme Diver Shadow |
| Reference Number | 97.9600.3620/21.I300 |
| Case Dimensions | 42.5mm (D) x 15.5mm (T) x 47.4mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Microblasted titanium |
| Water Resistance | 600 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Matte black with four-pointed star motif and yellow highlights |
| Lug Width | Integrated |
| Strap | H-link microblasted titanium bracelet, folding clasp FKM rubber and fabric straps included |
| Movement | El Primero 3620 SC, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, unidirectional diving bezel, helium escape valve |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$12,800 A$20,100 |