A new Defy Chronograph quartet starts the partnership between Zenith and USM
Borna BošnjakOf all the watch x *insert brand here* collaborations, one with a furniture design company is certainly on the list of more unlikely ones. Looking a little more into the work Zenith and USM Modular Furniture have done, however, it makes a surprising amount of sense. As a quick intr,o if you’re not familiar with USM, their signature Haller line has been inducted into MoMA’s permanent collection, becoming an epitome of industrial design – the kind of thing you can’t not pine over when window shopping, only before swiftly spinning on your heel and heading for the door after not-so-subtly glancing at the price tag.
What’s particularly interesting about these two household Swiss names teaming up, however, is that they didn’t just slap a USM logo onto a Zenith dial and call it a day, but rather created an all-new model. Taking the many-sided case of the 1969 Defy, Zenith and USM have reimagined it in chronograph form, one that it has never prior taken, rendering it in the bright colours you’d expect to find in the furniture brand’s repertoire.
The case
Though the vibrant dials are what you’ll spend most of your time looking at, the case design and dimensions are what stood out to me initially. The Defy Chronograph USM combines the octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel of the Defy A36xx, with all the polished facets you’d expect to find on USM’s chromed tubes and iconic ball joints. Its complex geometry is further accentuated by several brushed planes, but I doubt they’ll tone down the reflectivity too much.
Despite gaining three sub-dials, two pushers, and one complication, the Defy Chronograph USM stays very close to the original’s size at 37.3mm in diameter – though, just like the A36xx, it’s a chunky proposition on the wrist. While we don’t have the exact measurement at the time of writing, it’s taller than the time-only model’s 13.6mm, so that should paint a pretty good picture.
The dials
The Defy Chronograph USM will be available in four colourways, all taking from USM’s usual Haller line-up and consisting of Green, Pure Orange, Golden Yellow, and Gentian Blue. Zenith’s iconic overlapping sub-dials are present, as are the grooved block indices that have become a distinct aspect of Zenith’s vintage revival pieces. This continues with the typeface, including the “El Primero” script. While the font itself isn’t too different from Zenith’s other watches, its thick, puffy printing adds oodles of vintage charm. (Un)fortunately, depending on your personal preferences, that also means that a white date wheel sneaks in between the 3 and 4 o’clock indices. I’ve learned to accept it on Zenith’s Chronomaster Original models, where it’s usually colour-matched, but on a dial with this much going on, I would’ve preferred it omitted completely akin to the Chronomaster Revival Shadow.
One final and very subtle nod to USM can be found towards the tip of the central chronograph seconds hand. I’ve briefly alluded to the brand’s ball joint previously, and it makes its appearance here looking as if it’s joining the two parts of the hand in the same way it would connect USM’s tube frames.
The bracelet
The Gay Frères ladder bracelet has become synonymous with vintage and vintage revival Zenith pieces, and I’m glad to see it return here in an all-brushed finish. Zenith has cleverly made the transition from the polished case with a single brushed facet hooding the lugs, allowing the bracelet to more seamlessly integrate into the case. Naturally, their modern execution is a far cry from the rickety (but admittedly endearing) vintage examples, finishing in a long double foldover clasp with all the micro-adjustment holes you’ll ever need – though, notably, with no toolless adjustment.
The movement
Extending the lineage that began over five decades ago, the Defy Chronograph USM is powered by Zenith’s El Primero 400 movement. The tried-and-true chronograph calibre is renowned for its high frequency of 5Hz, sporting a sports column wheel and horizontal clutch that has the visual appeal of vintage chrono movements, with the bi-directional winding rotor tops up a 55-hour power reserve. As for decoration, there isn’t much to talk about here that hasn’t been covered at length, though, rest assured, it’s in line with what you’d expect from a major brand chronograph at this price point.
The verdict
Zenith’s Revival line is criminally underrated for the amount of character some of its pieces exude, perhaps sometimes overshadowed by the success of the brand’s own El Primero (now Chronomaster Original) models. While I can only hope that changes, it’s gems like this new Defy Chronograph that can help it along and reach the well-deserved spotlight.
Zenith Defy Chronograph USM collection pricing and availability
The Zenith x USM Modular Furniture Defy Chronograph collection is limited to 60 pieces per dial colour, and is available as individual watches or as part of a box set. Each watch also comes with an exclusive Zenith x USM watch cabinet. If you buy the box set, you get four cabinets – which, because they’re modular, you can combine into one mega-cabinet if you so desire. Price: CHF 10,900
| Brand | Zenith |
| Model | Defy Chronograph USM |
| Reference Number |
03.A780.400/19.M3642
03.A780.400-1/65.M3642 03.A780.400-2/91.M3642 03.A780.400-3/56.M3642 |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Onyx stone |
| Strap | Stainless steel ladder bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | El Primero 400, automatic, 5Hz |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph |
| Availability |
Limited to 60 pieces per dial colour, available individually or as a box set
|
| Price | CHF 10,900 (single watch) |