L.Leroy is staging another comeback with the complicated Osmior Bal du Temps
Borna BošnjakIf you were around in the late 18th century and had a penchant for fine watches, the name Leroy would’ve very likely been familiar to you. Throughout its storied history, the French brand made everything from early automatics, developed early detent escapements, and made insanely complicated pocket watches. These days, however, the once-watchmaker-to-the-king doesn’t enjoy the same lofty heights of being mentioned among the watchmaking elite, despite presenting numerous impressive pieces even after the name was acquired by the Festina Group in 2004. The conglomerate’s founder, Miguel Rodriguez, however, is determined to change that with the new Osmior Bal du Temps, presenting it on the occasion of the brand’s 240th anniversary.
This single-handed, tourbillon-equipped minute repeater takes on a more traditional look, but is based on Leroy’s 2023/4 Only Watch entrant that announced the brand’s revival, but was then retracted from the sale. It also signals Leroy’s return to high-end watchmaking by reviving the Osmior collection, doing so with a duet of haute horlogerie complications: a tourbillon and a minute repeater.
The dial
Making sure you can’t miss the fact that the Bal du Temps means business, there’s a giant tourbillon aperture at 6 o’clock, with all the repeater workings revealed on the dial. That name is actually quite fitting, as the centrepiece of the dial – the tourbillon – dances while the repeater chimes away. In fact, you’ll be able to see all the workings of the repeater mechanism, with the minute racks and ratchets taking up the top left portion of the open dial. Still, even a minute repeater is more convenient when it tells the time at a glance, which is why Leroy opted for a sunburst hour track around the case’s perimeter, available in anthracite, silver, or blue.
That said, Leroy clearly still wants you to use the repeater. The Bal du Temps is a single-handed watch, with no clear demarkations for the single minutes, only the quarters. Oh well, I guess you’ll just have to go through the effort of listening to a high-end watch chime the time at your behest…
The case
Available in a choice of three metals – titanium, red gold, and platinum – the Bal du Temps’ case is rather simple. It’s all polished, with few defining features save for a cut-out in the top left lug that allows enough space for the repeater slide to be pushed all the way. Due to the movement’s construction, it’s sized at 43mm in diameter and 13.6mm in height, both sizeable measurements but understandable to an extent when looking at the height of that tourbillon cage.
While I don’t expect many will take this new member of the Osmior collection anywhere near water, they will have at least 30 metres of water resistance, which is sufficient for this type of watch.
The strap
Regardless of your choice of case metal, the Osmior Bal du Temps is fitted on a black alligator leather strap with a case-matching folding clasp. It’s a safe choice that lets the dial shine, while still adding a refined touch with the L.Leroy logo clasp, which is admittedly quite lovely.
The movement
The complicated L610SQ in the back of the Bal du Temps returns from the aforementioned Only Watch piece unique, though without the hand-engraved details. The caseback view is dominated by a frosted three-quarter plate that features plenty of anglage (but no sharp inner angles), while the rest of the repeater mechanism from the front is visible on the reverse side, including the gongs, governor, and the black-polished and bevelled hammers. Quickly whipping back to the front side, I also just wanted to shout out the flying tourbillon, with its cage forming the Leroy logo. Spec-wise, you can expect a 3Hz beat rate and a hand-wound minimum 90-hour power reserve.
One final tidbit about the movement’s origin. While the Festina Group does own the Soprod movement manufacture, Leroy doesn’t specify who they partnered with for the L610SQ, only that it was “produced exclusively in Geneva” – but I’d certainly be curious to know. (Editor’s note: I quizzed L.Leroy representatives on the origins of the movement at Geneva Watch Days, and they wouldn’t give them up. But it has an extremely satisfyingly loud chime.)
The verdict
While previous attempts at staging a Leroy comeback haven’t gone to plan, it’s no surprise that Festina is giving it another go, as it’s currently missing the crown jewel that could elevate their entire arsenal. The most promising thing, other than the Bal du Temps being a pretty schmick watch, is that Festina’s founder has said L.Leroy will operate independently, which is music to enthusiasts’ ears.
The Bal du Temps is a strong show of intention, not only as a design object, but as proof that Leroy was able to find the right partners to make it come to life, and thanks to its impressive complications, it’s the right watch to thrust the Leroy name back into the spotlight. On a personal note, with the Osmior collection being back, I also pray Leroy brings back the L200 calibre that they presented at Baselworld a decade ago – a truly stunning movement featuring a direct pulse escapement and with its hand-finished bridges in aluminium.
L.Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps pricing and availability
The L.Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps is now available, and though its production is limited, the brand isn’t explicit to which degree. Price is on request
| Brand | L.Leroy |
| Model | Osmior Bal du Temps |
| Reference Number | LL305/1 (red gold) LL306/1 (platinum) LL307/1 titanium |
| Case Dimensions | 43mm (D) x 13.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k 5N red gold Platinum Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Domed sapphire front, sapphire back |
| Dial | Open, antracite, blue or silver sunray hour ring |
| Strap | Black alligator, case-matching folding clasp |
| Movement | L601AQ, manual-winding |
| Power Reserve | 90 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minute repeater, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Limited production |
| Price | On request |