Trilobe’s Trente-Deux might just be the most interesting integrated bracelet watch of the year
Zach BlassIt is hard to be original in the integrated bracelet category. With established icons like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, watches can often be plagued by commentary that suggests their designs borrow elements from the aforementioned duo – even, in some cases, when the watch was released before! One such example is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, which debuted in 1975, one year before the Nautilus in 1976. But today is not about Patek, GP or AP. Today is about Trilobe, who has managed to debut an integrated design that enters a saturated category in a manner befitting of the all too common term “novelty” with its new Trente-Deux. This is in part not only due to the brand’s signature digital displays, but also a brand new manufacture that results in the brand’s first in-house movement.
Its sportiest watch yet, the Trilobe Trente-Deux (32) is named after the address of its Parisian workshop, and has been given its name to honour the manner in which this watch is more French than ever before, thanks to the brand’s newly opened manufacture just outside of Paris. “Our manufacture now includes a high-precision component production facility near Paris,” Trilobe explains. “This is a key step in our vertical integration strategy, essential for ensuring quality, securing our supply chain, and preserving our freedom to innovate.”
The movement
The first result of its new manufacture is a new manufacture calibre: the X-Nihilo calibre. In Trilobe’s own words, it was “conceived, designed, developed, prototyped, machined, decorated, and assembled entirely in-house” with the minor exceptions being components like the hairspring, which was outsourced as most brands, small and large, do.
It’s a 42-hour automatic movement with its surfaces treated in 5N gold, and handsomely frosted, satinated, and bevelled. Even the screwheads have been black polished, and countersinks diamond-polished for the screws and jewels as well. A large square bridge does cover a fair portion of the inner workings, with the balance wheel ticking away, isolated on its own island. The balance in particular feels very Breguet-inspired, which makes sense considering the French roots of Breguet and Trilobe. We often see other watchmakers borrow Breguet numerals or hands, so to see a Breguet-like balance bridge is a far less common nod to the legendary Parisian watchmaker.
The case
The 50-metre water-resistant stainless steel case, 39.5mm in diameter, 10.15mm thick, and 46.18mm lug-to-lug, is comprised of 7 different components and alternates between brushed, polished, and microblasted finishes. The bezel is also finely coined, giving a further air of elegance to its sporty look. The brushing of the case and the polished, bevelled accents found on the lugs and case sides are performed to a high level that definitely ups the luxury feel.
On the wrist (whether that’s Marcus’s 7-inch-or-so wrist as seen in our photos, or my smaller 6.5-inch wrist), the watch sits super comfortably. The more compact lug-to-lug span will cater to most wrist sizes, and the camber negates any concern for the fixed endlink-to-endlink measurement. I also appreciate that the fins of the case, for lack of a better phrase, are used on both the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock sides. Though a functional measure on the right side to protect the crown, on the left side, its only design purpose is to maintain the symmetry of the case, which I visually appreciate very much.
The dials
The most familiar element of the watch, within the context of Trilobe design, is the blue and grey dials offered with the new Trente-Deux. I don’t mean the colour blue or grey, which are of course staples, but rather the brand’s signature digital displays that are a throughline of its designs.
For both dials, there is such rich texture expressed in their finish. Firstly, the metallic rings and apertures of the dial are excellently brushed and bevelled. But, secondly, the coloured surfaces feature multiple textures. Whether blue or grey, you will find matte sunray finishes, grained discs for the hours and minutes, and a seconds wheel combining azurage and clous de Paris guilloché. It not only looks handsome, but also increases legibility as the different textures allow you to better discern each individual ring and the indication it is responsible for.
A pitfall of mechanically-driven watches with digital displays is that they can be quite static and sterile. With the Trilobe Trente-Deux, however, its moving, running seconds ring really helps to remind those looking at the dial that the watch is alive. As much as many of us love grail-pieces like the Cartier Tank á Guichets, having to wait every minute for a jump can be a bit too climactic. Here, the dial is always moving, each layer, hours, minutes, and seconds, wandering to its own mathematical drum.
The strap
The bracelet exhibits the same high level of finish as the case it integrates into, but, for me, the highlight element is its spring-loaded clasp. Sourced from the venerated G&F Châtelain, this is the very same leaf-spring clasp you find on watches from Richard Mille and Chanel. It can take a little getting used to, but once you (very quickly) do, you will begin to wonder why all brands do not use this style of clasp.
The verdict
I know some people will say the fins of the case feel very Nautilus-esque, the case and bracelet shape a bit Vacheron Constantin 222-esque, and the dial a bit F.P. Journe-esque, but I personally feel that the package as a whole feels very refreshing and very well made. Maybe it was just how visually intriguing I found the dial and movement that has me overlooking arguable visual parallels, but I think such visual intrigue and the supreme level of comfort and quality I found in both of the Trente-Deux variants trumps such possible comparisons. To say I am a big fan of this watch could be an understatement, but to say I am not left wanting would be a lie.
My two points of feedback (which I communicated to the brand directly while I was handling the watches at Geneva Watch Days) were firstly, a water-resistance of 100 metres would have been more optimal, and secondly, a longer power reserve for the calibre. To be fair, I am less fussed about the second point. As a dateless, time-only automatic, a lower movement endurance will not really blemish the wear and ownership experience, especially if it gets a lot of self-winding wear time on the wrist.
However, as Trilobe’s first sporty watch, the market kind of demands 100 metres of water-resistance for a watch to feel like a true, safe sporty daily wearer. In fairness, the water resistance shout was something the brand told me was a recurring point of feedback and one that it is already looking into solutions for. So, if this is a major point of contention for you at this moment, I would definitely stay tuned.
At €17,500 (excluding tax), a young brand like Trilobe may find less down-the-rabbit-hole watch consumers baulking at the price tag (though its French manufacturing should spare consumers from Swiss-level tariffs!) But, in my opinion, with the level of finishing of the externals and internals considered, the overall attention to all details considered (like the spring-loaded clasp), its very comfortable presence and feel on the wrist, and its less static mechanical-digital dial, the Trilobe Trente-Deux is genuinely on my hunting-list – the more monochromatic grey dial variant in particular. The team really had to drag me away from the table. Don’t believe me? If you ever run into Jamie or Marcus, they will tell you that it is 100% true. (Editor’s note: can confirm.)
Trilobe Trente-Deux (32) pricing and availability
The Trilobe Trente-Deux (32) is available now for purchase. Price: €17,500 (excl. tax)
| Brand | Trilobe |
| Model | Trente-Deux (32) |
| Case Dimensions | 39.5mm (D) x 10.15mm (T) x 46.18mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Blue or grey |
| Strap | Integrated stainless steel bracelet, leaf-spring double folding clasp |
| Movement | X-Nihilo calibre, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Wandering hours, minutes and seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | €17,500 (excl. tax) |