Blancpain updates its Villeret line with subtle, yet well-considered tweaks
Russell SheldrakeThe Villeret family at Blancpain is the most underrepresented line in the modern catalogue, but thanks to these new Golden Hour updates to three key models, it is about to get its time in the sun. While the Fifty Fathoms has received most of the attention at Blancpain in recent memory, and rightfully so given its legendary reputation and history, the Villeret line has connections that stretch back to the founding of Blancpain in the 1700s, as well as direct links to some of Blancpain’s best watches made during the Jean-Claude Biver era.
The new Golden Hour Villeret collection combines what Blancpain does best: complex and sturdy movement construction, refined aesthetics, and historical provenance. While these new models will look very similar to the current collection, there have been a few small shifts in design that create a fresh feel, yet not drastic changes that compromise the DNA of the Villeret line. To make these kinds of design tweaks is a very subtle art, toeing the line between change and gradual evolution. These watches offer a peek at what a refreshed, but not reimagined, Villeret collection will look like moving forward.
Before we dive into the details, let’s quickly outline the three models and 16 references that have been introduced here. We have a complete calendar with moonphase in a 40mm case, a time and date in a 40mm case, and a calendar moonphase in a 33.2mm case that comes with the additional option of a diamond-set bezel. All of these are available in 18k red gold or stainless steel with an opaline or golden brown dial options.
The dial
There are two new dial colours that Blancpain has introduced across this range: a crisp opaline that offers a bright, white, more traditional option, and a golden brown that is finished with a sunray texture that allows the light to dance across it while in motion. They both offer a very different feel on the wrist, with the opaline being more conservative, and what you might expect from Blancpain, while the animated aspect of the golden brown makes the dial far more dynamic.
Of course, the dial layouts of the two calendar and moonphase models have stayed the same; however, there has been a small upgrade to the enigmatic moonphase that has become a bit of an icon for these watches at Blancpain. The little emotive face has been staring up at us since the Biver era at Blancpain, and now it has been given a new lease on life with a blue ceramic sky and an applied, brushed gold moon that still captures that evocative face but in a slightly more subtle way. This small emoticon of a moon has always been something that Blancpain collectors look for, and now, with this new upgrade, they have a new version to chase after.
The applied markers have also seen a slight update, with a refinement in the Roman numerals that edge the dial. A satin finish on the top and polished bevels help these stand out, while the traditional XII has been replaced with the brand’s JB logo at the top of the dial. The hands have also been altered slightly here, as they now have lume inserts added to them, something you don’t often see on traditional dress watches like this, and something I would personally have skipped, but they do add increased legibility and functionality in low-light situations.
The case
As mentioned above, there are two case metals available across these three models, namely stainless steel and 18k red gold. Both offer something very different, not only in price point but in how the dial and case combine for differing visual effects. The red gold mixes with the chocolatey golden brown dial for the most sumptuous combination of the four possibilities. This is the look to go for if you are not afraid of making a statement. The opposite is true for the steel and opaline dial combo, which feels far more refined and elegant.
The case construction has also seen some slight tweaks and refinements that have led to an overall fresher feel to the watch on the wrist. The bezel has been slightly thinned, opening up the dial more and giving less visual weight to the case, a key factor in making a dress watch feel more elegant. The lugs have also been slimmed down to amplify this effect even further. While nothing has been officially confirmed yet, these changes to the design and silhouette of the Villeret case are likely to be rolled out across the entire collection in the near future. So, handling these watches will give you the best opportunity to know what the Villeret collection will look like moving forward.
Something that has rightly stayed the same, however, is the under-lug correctors on the complete calendar moonphase that were originally patented all the way back in 2005. These useful and intuitive correctors make owning and living with one of these watches far easier than a traditional calendar complication that often requires correctors built into the case band that can only be operated by an over-priced and easily-lost corrector pin, or a toothpick. Thanks to these Blancpain staples, it’s a simple push under the lugs and the watch’s profile isn’t affected by pushers, nor do you need a specialist tool to move any of the indications along.
The movement
This is where we see the most continuity. The movements inside all three of these models have not changed from the previous generation, but as we like to say, ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’ There are, however, two movement elements that have seen a shift from the previous models. Firstly, the rotor has been open-worked, allowing us a far better view of the movement that has always been finished to Blancpain’s highest standards. The second area can’t be seen, but is just as important, and that is the warranty has been extended to five years across all of these movements.
Of course, this continuation of movements means that the advantages of the previous models are continued here: the sturdy design of the calibre 6654.4 gives the owner peace of mind when it needs correcting that nothing is going to break. Pair this with 72 hours of power reserve and five years of warranty, and you have a set-and-forget movement. This gets even more extreme for the time and date calibre 1151 as it comes with an impressive 100 hours of power reserve.
The strap
All three of these models are available on a variety of carefully chosen straps that are the ideal complement to their dress watch characteristics. You can choose between a blue-grey, honey, beige, or brown leather strap, and if you can’t choose a favourite, they are all fitted with quick-change spring bars, allowing you to match the strap to the outfit and situation. It’s a nice option to have with a dress watch that you’ll want to wear to multiple occasions.
The verdict
The updates that have been made in these models to the Villeret line do nothing but improve what was already a solid foundation. The slight adjustments give an elevated sense of luxury and elegance. These watches didn’t need a lot, but it is the culmination of these small shifts that make these new models well worth your consideration if you are looking for a dress watch with a difference. The link that these pieces have to the brand’s earliest models, as well as the cult classics of the 80s and 90s… It’s hard to look past the dress watches of Blancpain once you get through the Fifty Fathoms.
Blancpain Villeret Golden Hours pricing and availability
The new additions to the Blancpain Villeret line are available now. Price: Villeret Ultraplate from US$13,100, Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune from US$15,400, Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune from US$20,400
| Brand | Blancpain |
| Model | Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune Villeret Ultraplate Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune |
| Case Dimensions | 35mm (W) x 8.2mm (T) x 41mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel or 18k red gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Opaline or golden brown |
| Strap | Blue-grey, honey, beige, or brown leather strap, case-matching deployant buckle |
| Movement | Calibre 6654.4, in-house, automatic Calibre 1151, in-house, automatic Calibre 913QL.P, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours 100 hours 40 hours |
| Functions | Hours and minutes, seconds, date, complete calendar, moonphase |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune red gold – US$36,000/£27,500/CHF27,200. Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune stainless steel – US$20,400/£15,600/CHF15,400. Villeret Ultraplate red gold – US$27,200/£20,800/CHF20,500 Villeret Ultraplate stainless steel – US$13,100/£10,100/CHF9,900 Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune red gold – US$25,700/£19,700/CHF19,400 Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune stainless steel – US$15,400/£11,800/CHF11,600 Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune red gold diamond bezel – US$32,300/£24,700/CHF24,400 Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune stainless steel diamond bezel – US$21,700/£16,600/CHF16,400 |